I was looking for a panda chronograph, I had set my sights on a Heuer Autavia 85th anniversary, and by chance I came across this Paul Picot Gentleman 42 Chrono GMT. Love at first sight! What a marvel! The finish is very neat, with an alternation of polished/brushed on the case and the bracelet which gives the watch superb reflections in the light. The textured dial is very well finished and very neat. As its name suggests, it is a 42 mm case (without crown) and a little over 15 mm thick. It therefore has a certain presence on the wrist, especially since it has practically no bezel. But on my 18 cm wrist, it fits me very well. The movement is a 7750 with the highest finish, and reworked by Paul Picot. Côtes de Genève, blued screws, worked plates, but you can't even see it because the case back is full and engraved with a "gentleman". Crown engraved "PP" as always with Paul Picot. Butterfly folding clasp signed "Paul Picot Gentleman". The watch is quite heavy, but the strap is very comfortable. Otherwise, for those who don't know the brand, here is a brief summary: Brand created by Mario Boiocchi (Italian passionate about watchmaking) in 1976, in the middle of the quartz crisis. He admires the small Swiss watchmaking artisans, one of whom is called Paul Picot. However, they are destined to go bankrupt or disappear. He will therefore create a watch workshop with as a highlight these 3 words "Artisan-Horloger-Suisse", because he is convinced that Swiss watchmaking can survive if it focuses on what it does best: know-how and quality. The house's slogan is: "passion for detail". And since 1976, Paul Picot still exists and sells between 3000 and 4000 watches per year. It is a pity that the brand is very little known in France (much more in Italy and Germany). I let you discover mine and I hope that it will make you want to know more (that's kind of the goal of this platform)!

The beautiful stranger

Here is a Courant type LIP that dates from the early 1910s. A classic at the time, with its almost square case (31.5 x 32mm) and its welded lugs. These watches were decorated with a canvas strap or a set leather, but I preferred to put a 22 mm NATO on it to make a slightly offbeat style. On the wrist, the LIP is a little small (the standards of the time), but with the NATO, it fits (but it still looks more like a bracelet than a watch).
It is in very good original condition, because unlike the majority of Courant types of the time, this one is not in nickel chrome, but its case is in solid silver (hallmarked), therefore free of corrosion.
It needs a revision of its movement because it does not want to start again (it had been 10 years since I had taken it out either). It is almost never used and the oils must have solidified.
I bought it mainly for its look, its condition, and its age. And then it's a LIP.....and I like old LIPs in general!

A very pretty ancestor

A very cute ZENITH from the 50s, with a very pretty patina of the dial chiseled by time. 34 mm case with rather original horns, a movement that works perfectly. A great classic, but of very good quality. We are rarely disappointed when we buy this kind of vintage.

In search of times gone by

I have been looking for a perfect VERDAL Tour de France type for over 2 years now. I have seen a few of them, but very often in average condition, or with non-compliant parts. 
Personally, I was mainly looking for the reference 9308 which is for me one of the best finished, and I finally found this one a month ago. Pierced lugs, crown with the seahorse logo, water-resistant to 20 ATM (uncommon on a dress watch from the 60s), gold plating like new, raised indexes and numbers, magnificent dial with an adorable little second hand. Perfect! The caliber is a Unitas 6325, here in an incabloc version (so 17 jewels), which is really well adjusted and precise (-4 /+2 s/d). 
The more I look at it in detail, the more I find it objectively well finished. And despite the fact that it is a brand that speaks to few people, I find that it easily holds up to comparison with more "prestigious" models. 
It is a watch that I currently wear quite often, but since I have been waiting for it for so long, it seems normal. It is rare that a timepiece gives me so much emotion and satisfaction!

Finally a TTF in my collection

Here is a small ZENITH (34 mm) from the 50s, that I have had for over 30 years now.
It is a watch that could not be more classic, but with nice lugs.
I do not understand, however, the inflation that there is on these models, under the pretext that it is a known brand.
OK, it is reliable, it works well, and I am very happy with it. I had also bought another one in the process (the same, but gold plated and large second hand).....But hey, there are plenty of small classic watches from less renowned brands that do the job just as well, and are worthy of interest.
If mine were for sale today, I think I would pass my way. After all, it is only my opinion, and I totally respect those who are looking for a ZENITH like this one and are ready to pay the price.
But for me, there are so many little unknown vintage gems to discover...

Ultra classic

Magnificent version of LIP Himalaya, with its UFO case and its very refined dial. The sunray is strongly accentuated here, with shades ranging from steel gray to anthracite gray which gives a splendid depth effect; and often a "smoked dial" effect. All the rest of the watch is gold plated, and the whole thing catches the light well without being bling-bling. Very pure design therefore, without frills, but with a small bright orange second hand which gives a little boost to the whole, without distorting the original spirit of the watch. Very successful.
Only small downside: a crown a little small and too integrated, therefore difficult to wind (manual winding).

A very pure design

Very nice watch for a very nice brand. DREFFA GENEVE has produced very reliable high quality watches. This one is a diver from the 60s, water resistant to 20 ATM, screw-down crown, quick set date, with a superb dial in shades of blue that recalls the depths of the ocean. The movement is reliable and very precise (-4 / +10 s/d).
It is a watch that I always wear with great pleasure.

A quality diver

In the 60s, there were many models of diving watches. But the 30 ATM were real toolwatches aimed particularly at sea enthusiasts. 
This BULER is a typical example. It has been part of my collection for many years, and I still love it as much. This model exists in champagne dial (like here) and in black. The movement has a beryllium balance (almost non-magnetic material) which was an innovation of the brand (patent registered). Buler was very proud of it and had it inscribed at the beginning on its dials. 
I also appreciate the very thin bezel and the magnificent case back representing Neptune, King of the Oceans. 
Elegant, efficient and precise, it is a very pretty vintage diver. The only thing to look out for when buying is the perfect general condition, because like many old 30 ATM, these watches have often lived well.

A real little gem

Pretty little YEMA Sous-Marine that has been with me for quite a few years now.
I wore it often at one time, and in all circumstances, without consideration. And I can say that it is very robust and very reliable.
A very nice, chic, discreet and affordable watch, to wear every day.

Simple and chic

In the history of LIP, the T18 has left its mark in a significant way. Indeed, this model from the 30s/40s, already appreciated for the quality of its caliber, was recognized when a solid gold copy was offered to Winston Churchill in 1948, becoming the "Churchill". It has been reissued since 1988, and is still in the LIP catalog, but with a Quartz (???!!) Ronda (?????????!!!!) movement. If you are looking for one, prefer an original like this one. Perhaps less precise, but more in the spirit of LIP.
(To be completely objective and precise, LIP also reissued the T18 with a gold-plated case and a movement in every way identical to that of the 30s, limited to 180 copies, for around €2,500 (all sold))
I bought mine at least 30 years ago. This is a watch that has always attracted me: as legitimate as a Cartier Tank, but less expensive (less well finished too, but you can't have everything at this price!).
Having lain dormant for about twenty years, it is a little worn, but it will be entitled to a complete overhaul by my watchmaker very soon. It will thus start up again more beautifully for several decades on my wrist.

An icon in its own right

I have always liked the Super Compressors. I bought this one about 25 years ago, but even then there were a lot of enthusiasts for this kind of model. Mine is a POP made around 1966/67 by an association of watchmakers who, in this case, acted more as a casemaker. Indeed, most of the vintage Super Compressors still in circulation have common and easily recognizable components, including the case supplied by Ervin Piquerez SA with the mentions of patents 317537 and 337462, the diving suit, 20 ATM, EPSA, ... The diameter is 36 mm here, but as the bezel is almost absent, the watch has a nice presence on my 18 cm wrist, which the 2 large squared crowns emphasize. The movement is an ETA 2472 with automatic winding that is still very precise. I love the Super Compressors and I admit that an Enicar Sherpa Super Dive would be welcome in my collection. Unfortunately, the prices of these vintages tend to climb, which is their only major flaw.

An irresistible Super Compressor

Having a CAUNY Submarine in my collection was a must for me. I have always loved this watch. 
There are different variants, some better than others, but in general, they are very nice. 
The CAUNY Submarine are 21 Atmos (210 m) that asserted themselves as real divers. 
I think that the 21 Atmos claimed was only a fallacious sales pitch, because the majority of its 20 Atmos competitors were probably waterproof beyond 200 m. But the CAUNY stood out from the crowd. 
It must be said that the plexi "glass" still looks very thick (most certainly reinforced and ringed to resist pressure). 
Often equipped with quality movements, the CAUNY are wonderful vintage watches, reliable, robust and precise (+5 to +10 s/d for this one). 


An obvious choice

About fifteen years ago, I had a period where I was interested in affordable but quality 60s/70s divers with at least 20 ATM water resistance. And among others, this ANJAX with a very distinctive design with its second hand and touches of orange on the dial. Screw-down crown, 20 ATM, automatic movement, 38 mm case, blued aluminum bezel. Good specs for the time and a nice look convinced me to buy it, and I haven't been disappointed so far. Very good watch!

A little vintage diver

This SUJA is very cute with its beautiful textured dial and its cow horn style handles, but stylized.
I love these watches from the early 60s with their simple but extremely robust and reliable mechanics. This watch has, to my knowledge, never been serviced, but starts at the quarter turn, keeps very good time and only drifts by +10/15 seconds / day.
A little-known brand, SUJA mainly made women's watches in gold in the 50s / 60s.
This one joined my collection about twenty years ago, and I am very satisfied with it.

A really cool little watch

For me, a KELTON is above all a look, and a reliable watch. Exactly the characteristics of mine. 
It keeps time really well and has still not been serviced since I bought it 35 years ago! 
Afterwards, given the cost of a service at a watchmaker and the price of a KELTON, you really have to care about it to carry out a service. 
I also really like its diver look, but which fully assumes its 25 meters of water resistance. In other words, it is not waterproof at all. But hey, at that price, you can't have a 20 or 30 ATM either. 
Afterwards, the most important thing is that I like it


A pure Kelton juice

KELTON models are countless and can become the theme of a watch collection in its own right. 
Here is one that I like for several details. First, its unusual purple dial, which can turn black. Then, its hands match the raised indexes that contrast with the dial and ensure perfect readability. Beautiful case shape, day/date complication. 
Nothing extravagant, but a nice design, a beautiful state of conservation, and exemplary reliability. A KELTON! 
Otherwise, the mechanics are like the rest: in all simplicity.

In all simplicity

I was rocked, fed, even stuffed by KELTON advertising in my youth. 
"You change yourself ..... change your KELTON".
I was already interested in watches in the 70s, it was the popular brand par excellence that we could not escape.
Here is my first KELTON, which still works very well, without any revision for almost 40 years. I do not wear it anymore because it is a little small now (my wrist has grown in the meantime).
I had bought it because the dial and the hands looked like the BENRUS 3061 (watch that I liked a lot at the time).

Nostalgia on my wrist

If today, many collectors start with SEIKO, a few decades ago, KELTON was a completely justified choice. A very popular brand in the 60s/70s, it democratized the affordable and reliable watch. KELTONs are not technical marvels (I'm talking about mechanical watches), but the vast majority of those I've had in my hands are still working after 30, 40, 50 years of good and loyal service. And most of the time, without having had a maintenance interview. 
Here is a copy from the 60s that has lived well, but which still keeps time very well. 
Nice look and reliability: that's all I ask of a KELTON!

The base!

Another 7734 from my collection. This is a TYLEX chronograph that I really like. First the dial. I had already had, about thirty years ago, a S.A.N.E.P. chronograph with exactly the same dial. Unfortunately, I lost this watch during a move, but its look had remained in the maze of my memories since then. And then, 3 years ago, I found this chronograph with the same dial. Without further ado, I bought it without asking myself any more questions, especially since I knew the TYLEX brand because I already had one that I was satisfied with. Since then, this watch has filled me with joy. It has a movement that I appreciate and that is very reliable when it is well maintained. It is in a superb state of preservation. And it has filled one of the gaps in my collection.

A great vintage look.

Unique but rather pretty, this TYLEX from the early 60s has a salmon-colored dial, unusual at the time, but which has recently come back into fashion. The typography of the raised numbers is also nice. Its very classic shaped case bears the marks of time gone by (I wore it a lot at one time). And its movement is terribly precise. I also have a TYLEX chronograph of equal quality. For me, it is an unusual vintage brand that is just waiting to be known.

Salmon suits him so well.

The Valjoux 7734 is a must-have for all vintage chronograph lovers.
Here is a URECH chronograph from my collection equipped with this movement. It is very typical "70's" with its case shape and red hands. The condition is exceptional, close to new.
URECH is an unusual Swiss brand, but it still exists (mainly sells jewelry now. and some women's watches).
The case is a little thick, which is not justified on a hand-wound movement. But the look is really very nice and the absence of lugs makes it adapt well to the wrist.
My watchmaker just did a very big service last month, and once adjusted, the 7734 is extremely precise.
I really like this watch, and I wear it relatively often.

A very nice 7734 chrono

TIMEX being one of my favorite brands, I am not necessarily the most objective to talk about it. 
Here is one that I find particularly successful. 
The shape of its case is original, the circular brushing gives a superb effect, and the slightly smoked burgundy dial brings a lot of depth. 
In addition, it is in near new condition, and after an adjustment at the watchmaker, the movement, although basic, is very precise. 
A pretty Timex that I have rarely seen elsewhere, but which deserves all my attention.

A top quality Timex

I am not a fan of Russian watches, but yet, when I came across this little URAL about twenty years ago, I immediately found its name evocative.
The Ural, this mountain range that geographically marks the border between Europe and Asia, corresponds perfectly to this watch.
Externally, it looks like a French or Swiss watch from the 50s, but, mechanically, it is more in the Russian tradition from the point of view of its design.
I really like the very pronounced sunray of the dial, which is also shiny as a mirror.
It is a watch that I almost never wear, that I do not particularly maintain, but which always starts at the slightest request and will never let you down. Rustic, but incredibly robust!

An unknown Russian girl

Second DOMINA in my collection; this one has an old-fashioned look that does not leave vintage lovers like me indifferent.
Equipped with a nice automatic caliber that was revised a few years ago, it is still very precise and works perfectly well.
I know from experience that these old grannies are largely as reliable as the modern 3 hands/date. This Domina is proof of that.

Vintage as desired

Here is a mechanical WYLER with manual winding dating from the 80s. The shape of the case is both original, but also extremely classic. Very sober with only its two hands, it is the size of a "Tank" and fits very well on my 18 cm wrist.
A famous brand in its time, this one is no exception to the rule, because despite its simplistic appearance, it is very well made.
I found it really by chance, but it is a nice find.

Exemplary sobriety

The latest addition to my collection, I really like the look of this SICURA. It reminds me a bit of a Breitling SuperOcean, but with its own personality. After all, it's not surprising when you know the history of Sicura and Breitling.
Quite common on the vintage market, the SuperWaterproof 400 are much less so in very good condition. Which is normal, because these watches have generally "lived well".
The diameter is 41mm, but the bezel is thick, and the white 24H scale too (for me it is the essential charming asset of the watch). So the dial is reduced and the watch appears smaller than it is. Very successful!
The second crown is used to block the bezel during diving (but the efficiency is much less than with a Yema Superman).
I had been looking at the SuperWaterproof 400 for a long time, but it was the condition of this one that made me decide to take the plunge.
The prices, although they have increased, remain correct for this type of watch. Ultimately, I am very happy with this purchase.

A lovely diver

When I first saw this SEIKO SRPA13J1, I immediately fell in love with it. Unfortunately, it was no longer produced, but after a few months of searching, I managed to find it new at a jeweler near me, who had it in stock for........a while already! Hence a fairly easy negotiation....
I like many things about it, starting with its very beautiful textured dial. And then there are also its leaf hands and the very thin second hand, the nicely crafted crown, the shape of the case, the perfect diameter of 39mm, the faceted indexes, the water resistance of 10 bars, etc...
Only the movement is not crazy crazy. A basic 4R35, with just correct precision. It would have deserved better.
Still, I find it much more harmonious than my Presage Blue Moon.
I really like this watch, and with a cream strap it is almost perfect.

Elegance according to SEIKO

Here is an ANJAX from the 60s, a little-known French brand that was distributed by the Etablissements BOULLANGER & Fils located in Bordeaux.
I really like this design of large luminescent numbers so characteristic (which we also come across quite often).
Over time, the brightness has faded, but the look and typography remain nice.
The movement has just been completely overhauled and it is incredibly precise. My watchmaker has worked miracles again. But we get such good results as if the base is already good.
To summarize, small watch (34 mm) of good quality, low price, but great pleasure to wear it.

A bright design

Too common, too "social success", too "Séguéla". All these clichés of the Submariner had reached me and decided that there was no point in buying one. There are still a few pretty, reliable and less expensive 300 m divers on the market. And then at the time, about 4 years ago, I was looking for a BLANCPAIN Léman in white gold with a blue dial.......We're starting from a long way back......Really nothing to do with it! How can you want a gold dress watch, very rare in blue, and buy a rather common sports diver? Simply by chance. I was walking around a big city with my wife when I saw a shop specializing in old ROLEX watches. "Just a quick look, my dear". Given my wife's face, the look had better be quick. I go in and I see several Submariners among others. And there, there was one that stood out from the crowd. At first glance, it looked like all the other 16610s present (which my wife did not fail to point out to me!), but its condition was exceptional. The watch dated from 1998 but had hardly been worn, never polished, no patina. In mint condition. And there, I saw myself going back in time 25/30 years, to the time when preconceived ideas about the Submariner had no hold on me. I remembered that I liked its adventurous side, the concept of an indestructible watch that makes this watch THE watch of a lifetime. But hey, when I saw the price, my wife quickly brought me back down to earth. So, I promised her to abandon the BLANCPAIN project, and she gave in. Otherwise, it is a 16610 from 1998 (last tritium) entirely original, with all the papers, boxes and goodies possible. For the specs, I will not come back to it; everything has already been said. The finish is really very neat. The precision of the movement is exceptional: 0 to + 1 s/day on 5 positions, and this for 4 years. It is the most precise watch in my collection. And no, it is not big. A diameter of 40 mm and a contained thickness make it a completely classic watch on the wrist. To conclude, I have not regretted this purchase at any time, and so you should never say Never!!

A Submariner....Me, never!

Among vintage watches, there is a category that I particularly like: that of diver chronographs.
In the 60s/70s; they were considered real tool watches. Both chronograph and real diver (generally 200 meters), these sports watches were there to satisfy "active men" (see the advertisements of the time).
Mine is an AUREOLE from the 60s. Specialist in chronographs and diving watches, it is a brand that I like a lot, with a great experience (from 1933, it manufactured all-steel waterproof watches).
It is in exceptional condition, especially when you know that these watches were used daily and often without consideration.
For the chronograph side, it is equipped, like many chronographs at the time, with a Landeron movement (here a 48). Simple but effective caliber, it is a real hyper reliable tractor, and as far as I am concerned, very precise.
For the diver side, it is water-resistant to 20 ATM, all-steel case, screw-down crown, and once all the gaskets (case back, pushers, etc.) were changed, it passed the 20 bar water-resistance test again without any problem!
Indestructible, I tell you!!
I also love the steel blue color of the sub-dials, which is unusual, and its ideal diameter of 38mm.
You get the idea: I am an absolute fan of this watch and I wear it very often.

The ultimate tool watch!

La marque SYE [Start Your Engine] a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 2020 par Arnaud Pezeron &agrave; c&ocirc;t&eacute; de Paris en France. La marque inaugure le Sport Tailoring au poignet. Elle propose des montres sport-chic de caract&egrave;re, fiables, ludiques et abordables inspir&eacute;es de l'univers de la m&eacute;canique auto-moto. La gamme comprend deux mod&egrave;les distincts, la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_automatic_24">SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 </a>et la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_chronograph">SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
Cette marque embarque une innovation sur le changement du bracelet disponible en acier ou en cuir. La montre n'offre aucun espace entre le bracelet et la boite d&ucirc; &agrave; l&rsquo;absence de cornes, ce qui am&eacute;liore son confort et sa portabilit&eacute;.
<h2 class="p1">Combien co&ucirc;te une montre&nbsp;SYE&nbsp;?</h2>
La gamme SYE comporte deux mod&egrave;les disponibles sur le site de la marque : La SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 750&euro;. La SYE MOT1ON Chronograph est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 599 &euro;.
SYE est ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines montres par an tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une SYE qui vous correspond le mieux, les avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_francaises">Classement des meilleures marques de montres fran&ccedil;aises</a> dont SYE fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Novembre 2023)

The brand SYE [Start Your Engine] was created in 2020 by Arnaud Pezeron near Paris in France. The brand is introducing Sport Tailoring on the wrist. It offers sporty-chic watches with character, reliability, fun and affordability inspired by the world of car and motorcycle mechanics. The range includes two distinct models, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_automatic_24"> SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24</a> and the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_chronograph"> SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
This brand has an innovation in changing the bracelet available in steel or leather. The watch offers no space between the bracelet and the case due to the absence of lugs, which improves its comfort and portability.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a SYE watch cost?</h2>
The SYE range includes two models available on the brand's website: The SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 is offered from &euro; 750. The SYE MOT1ON Chronograph is offered from &euro; 599.
SYE is independent and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an SYE that best suits you, the Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the best French watch brands</a>, including SYE.
(Updated November 2023)

Here is a pretty little DIFOR, a French brand little known to the general public, but recognized for having made quality watches. DIFOR, a contraction of DIFfusion hORlogère, is a brand created after the war which had its peak in the 60s before disappearing in 1982, bought by MATY. Mine has a very classic design of its time, with its case shape, its gold plating and the protruding indexes. On the other hand, the gray/green color of its dial is quite original. Always starting at the quarter turn, its hand-wound movement is precise. An endearing watch that I unfortunately wear little, but always with pleasure.

Difor Owner Review : Sober, endearing and classic

The charm of the 60s

Other reviews published by Gilou

Paul Picot
Gentleman

Lip

Zenith

Verdal
Type Tour de France

Zenith

Lip
Himalaya

Dreffa

Buler

Yema
Sous-Marine

Lip
T18

Pop

Cauny
Submarine

Anjax

Suja

Kelton

Kelton

Kelton

Kelton

Tylex

Tylex

Urech

Timex

Oural

Domina

Wyler

Sicura
Superwaterproof

Seiko
Presage

Anjax

Rolex
Submariner Date
16610

Aureole

Difor Owner Review : Sober, endearing and classic

The charm of the 60s

Other reviews published by Gilou

Paul PicotGentleman

Lip

Zenith

VerdalType Tour de France

Zenith

LipHimalaya

Dreffa

Buler

YemaSous-Marine

LipT18

Pop

CaunySubmarine

Anjax

Suja

Kelton

Kelton

Kelton

Kelton

Tylex

Tylex

Urech

Timex

Oural

Domina

Wyler

SicuraSuperwaterproof

SeikoPresage

Anjax

RolexSubmariner Date16610

Aureole

Paul Picot
Gentleman

Verdal
Type Tour de France

Lip
Himalaya

Yema
Sous-Marine

Lip
T18

Cauny
Submarine

Sicura
Superwaterproof

Seiko
Presage

Rolex
Submariner Date
16610