For my collection, I was looking for an aviation watch. I quickly chose an iconic model: the Navitimer!

I first studied all the models for a long time because there are so many. It was then difficult to make a choice. The new models are very successful but I preferred to find a rare gem on the second-hand market, a unique version of this iconic watch.

I narrowed my research on the Cosmonaute model for several reasons. First because it is a model with a fascinating history. It is the first Swiss chronograph to travel into space thanks to Scott Carpenter. And it was he himself who asked Breitling for a 24-hour dial in order to distinguish day from night in the darkness of space. I like this specificity because it makes it original and readable only to insiders. On the other hand, it makes the indexes tighter. So yes, it’s loaded, but I love it! It’s impossible to get bored looking at it! And among the Cosmonaut models, this reference has 2 more things. First, the date window that was not present on the original model and second, the chronograph is equipped with a flyback function.

The dial is a “reverse panda”, black background and white subdials, with red accents on both the tip of the second hand and on the two scales of the slide rule. At noon we find the Breitling “Wings and Anchor” logo as well as the words “Chronometer” and “Automatic” which attest that the movement is COSC certified. The latter is a Breitling Cal. 22 movement on an ETA 2892 base modified with a Dubois Depraz flyback module. The hands are of the tapered baton type with a luminescent coating and the chronograph hand has a red arrowhead and a counterweight in the shape of the Breitling “B with anchor” logo. On the case back, we find the Breitling “Wings and Anchor” logo as well as a Celsius-Farenheit conversion scale, a small detail that I find very interesting. Finally, this model is equipped with a 7-link pilot bracelet emblematic of the brand. I find it very pleasant to wear because it fits the wrist perfectly but it is a pain to adjust it yourself. Another negative point, the clasp that I find difficult to open and not practical to use. 

The specificity of the Navitimer is of course its slide rule and when you know how to use it, it is a real pleasure to use it. In addition to multiplications and divisions, it allows you to perform rules of 3, calculate percentages, convert Miles to Kilometers or Swiss Francs to US Dollars. On this model, there is even a second scale for converting minutes to hours, which is quite practical. 

As for the negative, I am quite disappointed by the quality of the movement. I must admit that the flyback function does not always work, even when it is well wound and even after the service carried out at Breitling. The after-sales service of the brand leaves something to be desired. I also find that the chronograph lacks reaction speed. This is probably due to this modified movement. 

Finally, my opinion on the Breitling brand: 
It is a brand that makes me dream. It is associated with the world of aviation, adventure and exploits, in particular the round-the-world balloon trip. Georges Kern has been able to revitalize this heritage and give it a retro-chic-casual look that appeals to young people. 

Specs:
24-hour dial, Bidirectional bezel with slide rule, Chronograph with flyback function, small seconds at 3 o'clock, date at 4:30.

Diameter: 41.5mm
Thickness: 14.4mm
Power reserve: 42 hours
Year: 2007-2011
Ref: A22322
Depth: 30 m
Steel case
Sapphire crystal
Breitling Cal. 22 automatic movement (ETA 2892 base and Dubois Depraz flyback module) COSC certified


Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Flyback

I was initially tempted by the T-Touch Connect Solar but its imposing diameter (47 mm) was prohibitive. So, when the brand released this new model in a smaller size, I didn't hesitate long before buying it.

Compared to the old models, we can see that the design of this version is much more refined. The black dial has just indexes and the minute indications are on the ceramic bezel. The case is made of titanium and alternates with polished and brushed edges for a beautiful effect. The hands are half-skeletonized and equipped with a Super-LumiNova coating for optimal visibility in the dark.

I chose the version with the titanium bracelet. Surprisingly light, it has polished and brushed links, which gives it a distinguished appearance. However, it tends to scratch easily. The big positive point is the possibility of making micro-adjustments on the buckle, very useful when the wrist swells under the heat. Finally, it can be changed quite easily. So I also opted for a black rubber strap.

The sapphire crystal is advertised as scratch-resistant but has the disadvantage of being particularly prone to fingerprints. The touch screen now allows you to swipe but it is not always very responsive, it is often easier to use the push buttons. I find that the use of the watch and the organization of the menus are not very intuitive. Unlike an Apple Watch where everything is logical and direct, here you will have to go through several submenus for simple actions or read the manual to understand manipulations that you cannot guess.

The basic display of the digital screen displays the day, date and number of steps. I would have preferred the digital time or the possibility of being able to choose the option you prefer instead.
In conditions where you can't see the hands well, if you want to see the digital time display, you have to look for it buried in submenus. It's really not practical. Just like starting a stopwatch or an alarm, it would have been better to be able to do it more directly by reducing the number of manipulations required.

Descendant of the T-Touch family, we can regret that this version abandons options that were its trademark, such as the compass, the altimeter and the barometer.
Having tested the activity functions, I noticed that the indications were rather approximate (in particular the distance traveled or the difference in altitude). In addition, the number of functions is relatively small. An Apple Watch, for example, offers many more possibilities, will be much more efficient, more intuitive and at a price three times lower.

But that's not what we ask of this T-Touch Connect Sport. Because it is first and foremost a real watch equipped with 3 real hands. This is a beautiful piece of traditional Swiss watchmaking that has been boosted with modern technology. Its other strong point is its power reserve. Running on solar energy, its battery is almost unlimited in non-connected mode and can last 6 months with normal use.

Let's be clear, this watch is intended for a niche target audience. Athletes who need a smartwatch will turn to other models that are much more efficient and much less expensive. It is rather aimed at people who are looking for a beautiful watch first.

Personally, I find it perfect for traveling, when you only want one watch that goes everywhere. During the day, it allows you to measure your activity (distance traveled, etc.) and contains other useful functions such as notifications. In the evening, it can be a little dressed up without being too flashy. And the big advantage is that it doesn't need to be recharged!

Specs:
Perpetual calendar, Alarm, Time, Time zones, Automatic daylight saving time, Chronograph, Chrono with split time functions (SPLIT), Chrono lap (log), Chrono log, Step counter, Calories burned, Distance traveled, Notifications, Connection alerts, Eco mode, Auto sleep mode, speed, pace, heart rate, altitude gain, altitude, incoming calls, movement alerts

Diameter: 43.75 mm
Thickness: 13.5 mm
Power reserve: 42 h
Year: 2024
Ref: T1534204405100
Depth: 50 m
Antimagnetic titanium case
Ceramic bezel
Scratch-resistant tactile sapphire crystal
Solar quartz movement


Tissot T-Touch Connect Sport: a real hybrid

This is the first complicated watch that I bought for myself when my first book came out. At the time, I didn't know much about watchmaking other than the most famous brands. I first thought about buying a skeletonized Tissot with manual winding, but I saw in the store that for the same price, I could have other complications in addition, such as the date and the moon phase. That's what made me fall for this Frederique Constant Classic Heart Beat Moonphase.

The case is made of yellow gold-plated steel. Its silver dial is decorated with a clous de Paris motif, an ornamentation obtained by guilloché that has the shape of pyramidal nail heads with small grooves between each nail. It is partially skeletonized with a round opening at 12 o'clock called "Heart Beat" and which allows, as its name suggests, to see the heartbeat of the watch. At 6 o'clock, there is a moon phase window. The indexes are equipped with printed Roman numerals and the hands are Breguet type, recognizable by their small eccentrically hollowed-out circles. The case back is open and allows you to see its rotor with Côtes de Genève finishes, a famous pattern composed of a series of wavy streaks. Finally, the strap is made of calfskin with crocodile pattern.

The strong point of this watch is its value for money. It is rare to see so many complications in this price range. Its vintage side is pleasant but can be a little old-fashioned. It is not a watch that can be worn on all occasions. On the negative side, I deplore the imprecision of the indexes. There is a circular railway but it does not correspond to the minutes. In addition, the inscription of the dates all around the dial as well as its pointer can be confused with the minutes.

specs:
Hours, minutes, seconds, date pointer, moon phase, Heart Beat

Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 10 mm
Power reserve: 38 h
Year: 2017
Ref: FC-335MC4P5
Depth: 60 m


poetic neo-vintage

In 1999, Tissot released the world's first touchscreen watch: the T-Touch. In 2014, the brand innovated again with the first solar-powered touchscreen watch: the T-Touch Expert Solar. I bought it for myself in 2017 for my 30th birthday. 

With its 45 mm diameter, it may seem imposing, but its titanium case makes it light and comfortable to wear. The LCD screen and solar cell are directly integrated into the dial. On the bezel, there are indications that refer to the compass. This works with the watch hands but can sometimes be approximate. 

I have often taken this watch hiking and traveling and it has never disappointed me. However, I regret the absence of a second hand. 

The strong point of this watch is its power reserve. Running on solar energy, its lifespan is almost unlimited and there is no need to recharge it. 

It has about twenty functions including a perpetual calendar with day and week, a dual time zone, two alarms, weather with relative pressure, altimeter with altitude difference meter, stopwatch with intermediate time (SPLIT) and lap (journal) functions, compass, countdown, backlighting.

Diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Power reserve: infinite
Year: 2014
Ref: T091.420.47.057.01
Depth: 100 m


the world's first touch watch

There are already many reviews on this Blackbay GMT but mine may be interesting because it didn't appeal to me at all. Not really a fan of diving watches, I still wanted one for my collection. I was looking for a rather classic model with a GMT complication and a two-tone bezel.

I first tried an entry-level model, a Mido OCEAN STAR GMT, but I wasn't convinced. The winding and setting of the hands seemed slow to me and the whole watch lacked quality.

Obviously, I also knew the Tudor Blackbay range but I didn't really like their design and found them a bit expensive. To tell the truth, I didn't understand all the hype around the brand among watch enthusiasts. It was only when I bought another watch (see Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie review) in a second-hand store that I took the opportunity to try a model on display. And there, I must admit that when I wore it, my gaze changed radically. It was probably the fact of having tried an entry-level model beforehand that made me appreciate the manufacturing quality of this Tudor. Everything about this watch exudes robustness and reliability. When you put it on your wrist, you become another man. The quality of the machine gives a natural assurance to whoever wears it. 

The model with a black background highlights the mirror polish of the snowflake hands, characteristic of the brand with the shield. These move harmoniously, the snowflakes cross without obstructing the view in order to guarantee foolproof readability. They are powered by a Manufacture movement, Caliber MT5652, guaranteeing 70 hours of power reserve and COSC certified. The case is brushed on the top and polished on the sides. I find this choice judicious to give it a certain class without it being flashy when you look at the dial. 

The latter is topped with a bidirectional and two-tone bezel typical of GMT watches. The tones are at the crossroads of a “Pepsi” and a “Coca”. We are on a very dark blue that can appear black depending on the light and a rather garnet red. Allowing to read a third time zone, turning it is a real pleasure. Its clicking sounds are singing and its fluidity is flawless while guaranteeing a certain firmness. We feel that we can manipulate it endlessly without wearing it out.

Adorned with the emblematic Tudor rose, the screw-down crown inspires robustness. That said, once unscrewed, it reveals its silkier side. The winding is very gentle while being firm at the same time. At the first notch, the crown allows to set the local time without stopping the second hand or the minute hand. This “jumping hour” option found on the “true GMT” is very practical when changing time zones or from summer time to winter time. Again, this is done very smoothly here while feeling the directness of the notches and it is a real treat.

Another positive point of this watch is the possibility of changing the strap. I had two when I bought it, a very well-made two-tone Nato, ideal for summer, and a very comfortable and more dressy rubber-leather hybrid. This one has an elegant folding clasp but the detail I appreciate the most is the clasp, polished and brushed, which takes up the brand logo, the famous Tudor shield.

As for the negative points, some will note a certain thickness but personally, it does not bother me, I find that it is part of this style of watch.
To find a fault with it, I regret the completely empty case back. Being a tool watch designed to be robust, we do not expect a transparent back, of course, but it might have been nice to find a Tudor logo or a map of the Time zones, which is found on other watches.

Finally, my opinion on the Tudor brand:
Some people criticize it for being “the poor man’s Rolex”. However, it is not just a question of price, there is also a certain image that comes into play. Any watch enthusiast recognizes the importance of Rolex in the field, but many prefer not to be associated with a clientele interested only in the status that the brand confers. We could also criticize its marketing strategy of reduced offer and waiting lists or its lack of innovation by relying solely on its iconic models. On the contrary, its little sister Tudor was relaunched in the 2010s with the slogan “born to dare” because it dares to think outside the box. For all these reasons, I have the impression that many collectors prefer its little sister Tudor.

Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 14.8 mm
Power reserve: 70 h
Year: 2021
Ref: M79830RB
Depth: 200 m
Caliber MT5652
COSC certified


Change of mind...

Looking for a Perpetual Calendar watch for my collection, I was quickly put off by the price of such a complication. So I fell back on a more affordable category: the Annual Calendar (Unlike the QP, these do not take into account leap years, so they must be set once a year at the end of February). 

But in this category, the days of the week and months are often displayed in windows and not on sub-dials with hands as is more often the case on QP. However, it is precisely this style of representation that I liked. I find it fascinating to be able to see all the time measurements on sub-dials, whether in base 12 and 60 for the hours and minutes, but also in a more complex way in base 7 or 31 for the days of the week and the date of the month. After much research, this watch was the only one that met my criteria. 

Looking at it in more detail, we will notice the original representation of the moon phases on a sub-dial with a hand. This displays 4 moon phases (full moon, last quarter, new moon and first quarter) arranged in a cross, in the same way as the sub-dials and with the same colors as the hands.

These are available in two tones: pink gold for the Annual Calendar and blue for the chronograph. The hour and minute hands are in pink gold and shaped like swords (a common style of the Minerva brand, acquired by Montblanc). This sharp style is repeated in the pink gold indexes with a ridge in their center. Finally, the tip of the chronograph seconds hand is red, as is the minute indication at 15, 30 and 45 as well as the date on the 31st.

As for it, the strap is in black alligator leather with an elegant folding clasp. However, in my opinion, it lacks 2 or 3 notches for small wrists.

The small detail that enhances this watch is its crown set with the emblematic Montblanc logo, representing the famous summit and its six adjoining glaciers.

I really appreciate the elegance of this watch with its very successful design. The two tones of the hands blend very well with the silver background of the dial and the whole thing can reflect discreet sparkles depending on the light. The sub-dials, indexes and hands are well proportioned and balanced. Thus, one easily lets oneself be enchanted by the multitude of information indicated as well as by the care taken with the many small details.

As for the negative points, one can note a certain thickness but this is understandable given the many complications of the annual calendar coupled with the chronograph. In this case, the latter seems superfluous to me on such a model. Moreover, its push buttons lack slightly firmness for my taste. The case back is transparent but the movement is not the most fascinating to contemplate. It is hardly decorated and you can't see much. 

Finally, my opinion on the Montblanc brand:
I was initially skeptical about this brand which is not one of the big names in watchmaking and is better known for its pens. But little by little, intrigued by certain models, I became interested in it. Contrary to what I thought, the brand is not French but German, which remains difficult to swallow for a Genevan who loves beautiful watches. That said, its watchmaking branch is based in Switzerland (honor is saved!). It has 2 factories, one in Villeret (former Minerva factory bought by the brand), in the Bernese Jura and one in Le Locle, in the canton of Neuchâtel. This is why all their watches bear the inscription "swiss made". A true watch brand in its own right, it produces its own movements entirely and offers models with a unique character.

Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 13.8 mm
Power reserve: 42 h
Year: 2016
Ref: 114875
Depth: 30 m

Like a Perpetual Calendar tune...

The brand Frederique Constant brand was created in 1988 by Peter Stas and Aletta Stas Bax in the canton of Geneva, Switzerland. The couple began by producing high-end quartz movements before moving into manufacturing high-quality mechanical watches. The brand created the first affordable self-winding watch in 1992 and acquired the Alpina brand in 2002.
The range includes models like the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/frederique_constant/classics"> Frederique Constant Classics</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/frederique_constant/heart_beat_automatic"> Frederique Constant Heart Beat Automatic</a>, the <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/frederique_constant/highlife_automatic_cosc">Frederique Constant Highlife</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/frederique_constant/yacht_timer_regatta_countdown"> Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown</a>, and the Frederique Constant Manufacture.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a Frederique Constant watch cost?</h2>
The prices of Frederique Constant watches sold on the brand's website are changing between $ 700 and $ 43,000 depending on the models and finishes. Count $ 1,990 for a Frederique Constant Classics Premiere and $ 3,495 for a Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph.
Frederick Constant is owned by the group<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/citizen"> Citizen</a>, which also owns the brands<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/alpina"> Alpina</a>,<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/bulova"> Bulova</a> and Arnold &amp; Son, and produces 105,000 watches per year, all models combined. To choose the Frederique Constant model that best suits you, Dialicious owners&rsquo; reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating different models through real customer experience.
(Updated December 2023)

I find myself looking at my watch for long minutes, my beating heart is visible thanks to the openwork dial, the central guilloche is magnificent which gives depth to the dial. The hands are very beautiful, of the Breguet type (hands with a hollowed-out apple), the moon phase is also very well done.

The charm of the jigsaw

La marque SYE [Start Your Engine] a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 2020 par Arnaud Pezeron &agrave; c&ocirc;t&eacute; de Paris en France. La marque inaugure le Sport Tailoring au poignet. Elle propose des montres sport-chic de caract&egrave;re, fiables, ludiques et abordables inspir&eacute;es de l'univers de la m&eacute;canique auto-moto. La gamme comprend deux mod&egrave;les distincts, la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_automatic_24">SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 </a>et la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_chronograph">SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
Cette marque embarque une innovation sur le changement du bracelet disponible en acier ou en cuir. La montre n'offre aucun espace entre le bracelet et la boite d&ucirc; &agrave; l&rsquo;absence de cornes, ce qui am&eacute;liore son confort et sa portabilit&eacute;.
<h2 class="p1">Combien co&ucirc;te une montre&nbsp;SYE&nbsp;?</h2>
La gamme SYE comporte deux mod&egrave;les disponibles sur le site de la marque : La SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 750&euro;. La SYE MOT1ON Chronograph est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 599 &euro;.
SYE est ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines montres par an tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une SYE qui vous correspond le mieux, les avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_francaises">Classement des meilleures marques de montres fran&ccedil;aises</a> dont SYE fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Novembre 2023)

The brand SYE [Start Your Engine] was created in 2020 by Arnaud Pezeron near Paris in France. The brand is introducing Sport Tailoring on the wrist. It offers sporty-chic watches with character, reliability, fun and affordability inspired by the world of car and motorcycle mechanics. The range includes two distinct models, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_automatic_24"> SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24</a> and the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_chronograph"> SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
This brand has an innovation in changing the bracelet available in steel or leather. The watch offers no space between the bracelet and the case due to the absence of lugs, which improves its comfort and portability.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a SYE watch cost?</h2>
The SYE range includes two models available on the brand's website: The SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 is offered from &euro; 750. The SYE MOT1ON Chronograph is offered from &euro; 599.
SYE is independent and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an SYE that best suits you, the Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the best French watch brands</a>, including SYE.
(Updated November 2023)

Frederique Constant Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Owner Review : Endearing, picturesque and poetic

poetic neo-vintage

Other reviews published by Fabrice Genève

Breitling
Navitimer Cosmonaute

Tissot
T-Touch

Tissot
T-Touch

Tudor
Black Bay GMT

Montblanc
Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Annuel

Frederique Constant Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Owner Review : Endearing, picturesque and poetic

poetic neo-vintage

Other reviews published by Fabrice Genève

BreitlingNavitimer Cosmonaute

TissotT-Touch

TissotT-Touch

TudorBlack Bay GMT

MontblancHeritage Chronométrie Quantième Annuel

Breitling
Navitimer Cosmonaute

Tissot
T-Touch

Tissot
T-Touch

Tudor
Black Bay GMT

Montblanc
Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Annuel