Recent acquisition of a brand that I particularly like for its adequacy between the quality offered and what, in my eyes, constitutes the fair price to pay for a high-quality watch in full steel.

Since it freed itself from the overly oppressive tutelage of its big sister from 2017 and the arrival of manufactured calibers, Tudor has never ceased to impress me. Everything seems measured, calculated, taken into consideration to please a majority. Almost all of the watches are aesthetically successful, mechanically accomplished and historically consistent with its lineage.

This reference was purchased before Christmas second-hand at an unbeatable price. It is new from stock as of July 2024, which means that its condition is perfect.

For the rest, the description I made on my little eponymous IG page to my nickname here:

🚨N.W.A🚨 Tudor Black Bay Ref M7941A1A0RU-0003 Play it like Beckham.
⭕️41MM steel case with polished and satin finish, unidirectional steel bezel with burgundy/red aluminum insert; 60min graduation.
⚫️Black dial slightly sunrayed and domed with railroad minute track on the periphery and ivory-colored applied indexes with copper-look rim.
🪡 3 hands called Snowflake, Tudor signature since 1969 with blue SuperLuminova luminescent material. (Green being for Rolex)
⛓️Steel bracelet with 5 polished and satin-finished oval links equipped with a T-Fit clasp quickly adjustable to 5 positions and 8mm. Folding clasp with safety latch with the Tudor shield logo and featuring a ceramic ball system that is very nice to handle. 🚜Tudor manufactured automatic caliber with silicon spiral and independent METAS certification called "Master Chronometer", the highest possible.
This certification meets 5 criteria:
1/ Swiss Made criterion of excellence 2/Precision: The watch must be at least certified by the COSC (-4/+6 sec of tolerated drift per day). The METAS increases this variance to +0/+5sec or 2 times less. (Knowing that Tudor still imposes a -2/+4 for its in-house calibers)
3/Resistance to magnetic fields up to 15k Gauss for operation in all circumstances.
4/Waterproofness: Compliance with the ISO 22810:2010 standard here 200m (the minimum). The watch is therefore a so-called diving watch 🤿.
5/ Autonomy: 70 hours of power reserve. 👑: Crown (not protected) winding mechanism signed with the Tudor rose, plated on the band of the case. This Black Bay 2023, whose line was launched in 2012, is the 3rd reinterpretation of the historic @tudorwatch Submariner diving watches from the 50's. It condenses all the know-how of a house that since 2017 has truly freed itself from its big sister Rolex by offering robust watches, with indisputable qualitative finishes and exceptional reliability.

The student has surpassed the master

More and more seduced by vintage even if I measure all the difficulty that it is to find an old watch corresponding to both preservation and precision requirements, the Omega Speedmaster Ref 3592.50 from 1994 commemorating the 25th anniversary of the Apollo XI mission appeared as one of the ideal models to integrate into a collection because of the myth that it objectively represents and the very subjective luck of having found a copy in excellent condition, with its original papers and an Omega service box.

Any lover of watchmaking history knows the mythical, magnificent history of Omega, I will not dwell on it.
Any vintage enthusiast knows that a hesalite crystal is better than a sapphire crystal that can be seen on the new models
Any mechanical enthusiast knows the legendary caliber 863 and its sumptuous Côtes de Gèneve finishes that power this watch (and whose transparent back allows you to admire all its beauty) and will naturally prefer it to the co-axial of the new models, too far removed from what the first Speedmasters were...

The patina of my watch has evolved towards straw yellow under the effect of the tritium which 30 years later, is still present.
The same one that slightly attacked the minute hand giving this Speedmaster a unique side, a true witness to the passing of time and which outrages even the most beautiful things in this world, proof that immutability in watchmaking may not really exist...

The original bracelet has also patinated over time. Its original shine has evolved towards a warm and matte gray of great beauty. The same goes for the Speedmaster logoed folding clasp.

Recently tested, the watch displays a daily drift of -1, -2 seconds max in normal conditions of use. The chronograph also holds the distance with a stunning comparison with the atomic clockwork of the iPhone 15. What more can I say...? Nothing.

A watch with a look, a presence and a crazy charm, just as legendary for the informed as discreet for the general public and it's not so bad...

If like me a watch is placed beyond a single functional objective, is more than a marker of success and is beyond the sole investment, then go for vintage without hesitation but with some knowledge about what you are buying... if necessary get advice! You will never be disappointed

My first vintage

- Japanese Watchmaking.
- 38.4mm steel case, the ideal diameter for all types of wrists, all types of people.
- Domed sapphire crystal, renowned for being scratch-resistant, concealing a beautiful ivory-colored dial topped with bright gray Roman numeral indexes and a railroad minute track with certain legibility.
- Date and calendar at 3 o'clock, seconds dial at 6 o'clock.
- Self-winding movement, Caliber F6222 manufactured by the house, with unfailing reliability and more than satisfactory precision (-+15/+25s/day maximum tolerance).
- Blue dauphine hands.
- Very comfortable stitched leather strap on signed pin buckle.

250e boutique price. Go find more quality in this category of (dress) watches and this price range and I'll offer it to you myself!

The best possible entry level for a dress watch!

Having been a watch enthusiast for over 2 years, I have gradually built up a collection (only composed of manufacture/COSC movements) in stages and by theme (diver, chronograph); gradually increasing my investments. Tag Heuer, Tudor, Breitling... The next step could only be - within my means - the famous brand with the crown. Without being a primary Rolex aficionado, I ended up measuring all the majesty of the brand by dint of researching it and gradually fell in love with the model that I own today.
Far from being a confidential model, the "Wimbledon" in my eyes is the most beautiful version of the datejust, combining both elegance and sportiness.

This version, purchased in an official store (the first, preferring to bet on financial considerations and customer service on the second hand) has the new Rolex caliber 3235 (RDM 70h), antimagnetic and shock-resistant as well as the Easylink comfort extension. All the latest Rolex innovations within reach of the wrist in short.
The black Roman numerals circled in green appear to me as a true marvel whose color variances I never tire of contemplating according to the light projected on the slate-finish dial and sumptuously brushed in a circular manner. A real visual success.

The choice of an Oyster configuration and a smooth bezel is motivated by personal aesthetic considerations, preferring the Jubilee on a GMT and not necessarily liking the mixture of metals for a fluted bezel.

The watch is comfortable to wear, adaptable to all outfits. I regret however that the oysterlock clasp is a scratch magnet (but what clasp is not really?) and that visibility in the dark is average.

Great buying experience. Deposit of 3 wishes in March 2k23 (The Wimbledon, the datejust with a mint green dial and a classic black OP). Waiting period announced as 10 to 12 months. Reminder in June 2K23 to offer me another alternative (DJ green sunray dial). I finally manage to get my first choice after discussion. Payment of a 30% deposit and delivery time announced as 3 to 6 months. 20 days later/early July 2K23, announcement that my watch is available and acquisition in the process. Lucky. My collection is growing in the most beautiful way! Next goal, a Japanese movement!

The fact that I know the person who accompanied me throughout the process probably helped me (he was one of my former work-study students at Rolex, me who until very recently taught at the university).

Looking forward to discussing this model at the watch event organized by "A la bon'heure du tic-tac" on 10/21/2023 at the Intercontinental Hotel in Lyon!



A dream come true

The ideal watch to get started in luxury watchmaking. For lovers of style, this watch goes with all types of styles, from formal suits to casual Sunday wear
A "suitable" retail price for a quality watch that carries the legacy of an iconic watch brand; without falling into the excessive price of watches without any particular complication from other brands.
This diver (300m) will suit those looking for a discreet timepiece that, although imposing with its 43mm, is unknown to neophytes and will ultimately only be recognized by a handful of connoisseurs.
A subtle blend of brushed stainless steel and ceramic, the unidirectional case-bezel assembly is aesthetically very beautiful due to its unusual geometry (and reinforced by the crown protectors). The case back is solid with a diving suit-shaped engraving that in no way alters the wearing of a very pleasant watch on the wrist.
The blue sunray and ribbed dial gives the impression of looking at a different watch each time, depending on the viewing angle. The logo (like the hands) is rhodium-plated, which gives the watch some substance.
Bracelet with a branded folding clasp with adjustment over 15mm (especially for diving). Downside: this buckle is a magnet for micro scratches if used regularly (and yes, a watch is worn!) but which easily disappears when polished.
Easy maintenance, simple handling for a truly successful set of a Tag Heuer classic that I can only recommend due to its excellent value for money.
Perhaps a power reserve greater than 38 hours and availability for steel models other than the classic black/white/blue would have been necessary.


A plebiscite

THE unloved Rolex in its 116 900 version, the very one that broke the aesthetic and visual codes of all previous Air Kings when it was released in 2016
The Air King is both an incarnation and a paradox. The first because it is part of one of the oldest ranges of the brand with the crown. As far back as those who read me can remember, the vast majority of them will have always heard of the "Air" collection of which the "King" is the only survivor on the eve of its 80th spring.
The second because it is a professional that in THIS version does not follow any of its codes; because it deviates from the sacrosanct principle of respect for elders, as it has been the unloved of aficionados since practically its birth, because it is often criticized, scolded without anyone being able to really say why and unfortunately, often wrongly...

The height of precision according to Rolex standards, Oysclaps and Easy Link for practicality, total anamagnetism due to the soft iron cage that contains the 3131 manufacture caliber shared with the Millgauss, Rolex logo signed in its historic color and yellow crown enthroned on the dial, 3 6 9 hour markers applied and in 18k white gold, Mercedes hands and green lollipop second hand...
From a technical point of view, everything is present, in compliance with the standards of the watchmaking locomotive.
Some will say that the case is too thick and that the watch is very heavy. Let's not exaggerate. Others will say that the dial is too busy. I've seen worse. Finally, we will say that this watch does not deserve its status as "professional"? And if that was not its singularity?

It is also regrettable in my humble opinion that THIS Air King was remodeled in 2023 to make it more conform to a mold that leaves no room for nonconformity at Rolex and which is the charm of watchmaking...

Ultimately, a beautiful watch, ideal for starting out at Rolex as long as we keep in mind that we will always pay in the purchase price from them a part of history, a part of prestige...



The ugly duckling :/

A diver's watch "special edition 50 years of the model" among aviation watch specialists is unusual! A watch of this size is even less so! 46mm on the wrist... Some will see it as a watch for ostentation, that we wear only to be seen and recognized... I see here a sublime timekeeper in a hypnotic sunray blue, 3-hand dial and Breitling logo in 18k gold nicely decorated with baton indexes with a "railroad" outline that seems to be one with the ceramic bezel of the same tone. The rendering is simple, effective and gives a watch that gives the time COSC precision with a beautiful 70-hour power reserve. What more could you ask for?

Ab initio, this type of model didn't interest me much until I came across one in a window and after trying it on, its imposing diameter no longer seemed so disturbing to me.

The Milanese mesh bracelet is light and pleasant to wear, contrasting subtly with the heaviness of the case and ultimately forming a homogeneous whole. This time, it's a real plus and a real change from the classics. Folding clasp closure mechanism with a reminder of the old Breitling "winged B" logo crossed by an anchor. Nice detail.

The watch is reassuring and objectively successful in terms of visuals, in a sporty-chic design that allows it to be worn with any outfit.

On the downside, a unidirectional bezel without numerical indications that "noises" in a rather banal way. The 120 teeth that compose it are not the most pleasant to the touch and the calligraphy of "SuperOcean" is not the most beautiful thing that exists in this world. The date indication with a magnifying glass would not have been a luxury for a (small) diving watch (200m) ... In short, so many details that make us feel that Breitling prefers to fly rather than swim. But not going any further from where I stand, these defects are forgiven. 

Very recent purchase, to replace a professional Aquaracer that I really liked, wore a lot but which no longer brought me any emotion. Weariness, desire to move upmarket 

I lack the experience of happy days to see how it evolves with the passing of time. Maybe I will change my opinion in a while (if the platform allows me haha) 



A very rare steak for the 50th...!

Having truly fallen under the spell of time in 2021, I was looking to acquire my second timepiece from a major watch manufacturer 1 and a half years later. However, after watching many videos of Xavier, after reading an infinite number of articles and specialist magazines, I still couldn't make up my mind... 
One fine day (or was it a night?), I went to a shop well known to the people of Lyon for its second-hand watches to just "look and try" without any definite intention to buy and luck would have it that I found myself next to this beauty in the same place, at the same time. 
From the window, my attention was caught. It must be said that it is imposing with its 41mm case that the 2 push buttons and the imposing flat crown with a rose logo make even more imposing. The watch is "heavy" which goes hand in hand with the impression of solidity that it gives off. Comfortable to wear on the wrist, mesmerizing visual: The black-opal mix is really successful and the absence of a third under-counter alongside the small seconds and the timer avoids weighing down the dial too much. "Oyster" bracelet with classic folding clasp and closure forming the "Tudor Shield". Nice.
The aluminum tachymeter bezel and silver indications are outdated but undeniably make the charm of the watch. The stopwatch is, in 2023, a gadget but remains an essential watchmaking complication! Be careful to screw the buttons back in after use otherwise bye-bye to the water resistance (200 meters)! (We learn this with experience -_-)
COSC certification for remarkable and noted precision as much as the domed sapphire crystal.
The watch is difficult to find in AD which confirms that Tudor has been moving upmarket for a few years and is now only the "little sister of Rolex". #waitinglist. It can therefore be an interesting investment (its value on the grey market tends to be higher than in stores)
On the downsides, the case back is solid and poorly worked. No aesthetic interest. The luminova is not the brightest and fades quickly and the chronograph second hand is not coated with it so that the functionality is of no use at night or in the dark. Noted. Date window at 6 o'clock without a magnifying glass. Too bad.
The whole thing is still very good, however; try it and you'll love it! Nb: its sporty look suits all types of styles or outfits but its size requires a certain wrist size.



Big P.A.N.D.A

The Orient brand was created in 1951 by Shogoro Yoshida in Japan. It all began in 1901 when the founder opened a watch boutique in the Ueno commercial district of Tokyo. For 50 years, it was able to take advantage of an expanding market and expand to the point of offering its own models. It was only in 1950 that he founded the &ldquo;Tama Keiki Co&rdquo; factory in the town of Hino. The original name of the company was quickly changed to accompany the release of their first model, the Orient Star, in 1951.
The name of the brand comes from the Latin Oriri which means to be born, to rise, to rise. Orient offers high quality, precise watches with unbeatable value for money. It is also known as one of the world's main manufacturers of mechanical watches in volumes.
The range includes models like the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/orient/mako_iii_kamasu"> Orient Mako III Kamasu</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/orient/bambino_1"> Orient Bambino 1</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/orient/mako"> Orient Mako</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/orient/flight"> Orient Flight</a> and the Orient King Star.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does an Orient watch cost?</h2>
The prices of Orient watches sold on the brand's website are changing between &euro;179 and &euro;1,350 depending on the models and finishes. Count &euro;245 for an Orient Bambino 2 and &euro;449 for an Orient Mechanical Sports.
Orient is owned by Seiko Epson Corporation and produces approximately 2 million watches per year, all models combined. To choose an Orient that best suits you, Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real owner experience.
Check out the <a href="https://preprod.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_japanese_watch_brands">Ranking of the best japanese watch brands</a>, including Orient.
(Updated December 2023)
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Cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 2017 par le designer Nicolas Ducoudert, Beaubleu apporte une dimension nouvelle &agrave; l&rsquo;horlogerie en cr&eacute;ant des montres &agrave; la fois esth&eacute;tiques, &eacute;tonnantes et profond&eacute;ment symboliques. Les aiguilles rondes, signature de la Maison, sont le reflet d&rsquo;une singularit&eacute; et d&rsquo;une simplicit&eacute; sophistiqu&eacute;e. Chaque mod&egrave;le arbore un design d&eacute;licieusement contemporain, o&ugrave; chaque d&eacute;tail, chaque surface, interagissent avec la lumi&egrave;re.
Cassant les codes de l'horlogerie traditionnelle en apportant une vision nouvelle du temps, les montres Beaubleu sortent des sentiers battus en arborant des aiguilles rondes et &eacute;vid&eacute;es, inspir&eacute;es des travaux de Galil&eacute;e dans sa compr&eacute;hension du syst&egrave;me solaire. Ces aiguilles affichent de mani&egrave;re po&eacute;tique les heures, qui ne pointent pas un index ni une graduation, mais qui indiquent une position, un instant depuis le centre du cadran.
<h2>Quels sont les principaux mod&egrave;les de la marque Beaubleu ?</h2>
Beaubleu vient d&rsquo;annoncer le 5 juin 2024, le lancement d&rsquo;une nouvelle collection en s&eacute;rie limit&eacute;e nomm&eacute;e <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/seconde_francaise">Beaubleu Seconde Fran&ccedil;aise</a>. Une belle innovation esth&eacute;tique et po&eacute;tique comme en a le secret la marque., avec une aiguille volante des secondes et un calibre fran&ccedil;ais de France &Eacute;bauches. La Beaubleu Seconde Fran&ccedil;aise fait partie des nomin&eacute;s au Grand Prix d''Horlogerie de Gen&egrave;ve 2024.&nbsp;
La collection <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/ecce">Beaubleu Ecce</a> reste la collection permanente de la marque lanc&eacute;e en octobre 2023. Malgr&eacute; sa jeune histoire, Beaubleu a d&eacute;j&agrave; commercialis&eacute; 3 collections en s&eacute;ries limit&eacute;es :
<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/b01">Beaubleu B01</a> <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/union">Beaubleu Union</a> <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/vitruve_date">Beaubleu Vitruve Date</a> et <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/vitruve_gmt">Beaubleu Vitruve GMT</a>
<h2>Quel est le prix d'une montre Beaubleu ?</h2>
Le prix des montres Beaubleu &eacute;voluent et diff&egrave;rent selon les mod&egrave;les. La plupart co&ucirc;tent entre 800 &euro; et 1,600 &euro; selon les r&eacute;f&eacute;rences. A titre d'exemple, une <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/ecce/vesperal">Beaubleu Ecce Vesperal</a> est propos&eacute;e &agrave; 890 &euro; sur le bracelet cuir et la nouvelle collection <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/seconde_francaise">Beaubleu Seconde Fran&ccedil;aise</a> est vendue &agrave; partir de 1,490 &euro; sur bracelet cuir &eacute;galement. <a href="bit.ly/4abJPrn" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Tous les prix Beaubleu sur le site de la marque</a>.
La marque Beaubleu est ind&eacute;pendante et vend plusieurs milliers de montres par an, tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir le mod&egrave;le Beaubleu qui vous correspond le mieux, les <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/seconde_francaise/20.24_gris_perle/review/66607be37f15bc103d620fe3">avis clients Dialicious sur Beaubleu</a> sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer les diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients de la marque.
Consultez le<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_francaises"> Classement des meilleures marques de montres fran&ccedil;aises</a> dont Beaubleu fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Novembre 2024)
&nbsp;

Created in 2017 by designer Nicolas Ducoudert, Beaubleu brings a new dimension to watchmaking by creating watches that are aesthetic, astonishing and deeply symbolic. The round hands, signature of the House, reflect singularity and sophisticated simplicity. Each model features a deliciously contemporary design, where every detail, every surface, interacts with light.
Breaking the codes of traditional watchmaking by providing a new vision of time, Beaubleu watches go off the beaten track by featuring round, hollowed-out hands, inspired by the work of Galileo in his understanding of the solar system. These hands poetically display the hours, which do not point to an index or a graduation, but which indicate a position, an instant from the center of the dial.
<h2 dir="ltr">What are the main models of the Beaubleu brand?</h2>
Beaubleu has just announced on June 5, 2024, the launch of a new limited series collection called<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/seconde_francaise"> Beaubleu Seconde Francaise</a>. A beautiful aesthetic and poetic innovation as the brand has the secret, with a flying seconds hand and a French caliber from France &Eacute;bauches. The Beaubleu Seconde Fran&ccedil;aise is one of the nominees for the 2024 GPHG (Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Gen&egrave;ve).&nbsp;
The collection<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/ecce"> Beaubleu Ecce</a> remains the permanent collection of the brand launched in October 2023. Despite its young history, Beaubleu has already marketed 3 collections in limited series:
<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/b01">Beaubleu B01 </a><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/union">Beaubleu Union </a><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/vitruve_date">Beaubleu Vitruvius Date</a> And<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/vitruve_gmt"> Beaubleu Vitruve GMT</a>
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a Beaubleu watch cost?</h2>
The prices of Beaubleu watches change and differ depending on the model. Most cost between &euro; 800 and &euro; 1,600 according to the references. As an example, a<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/ecce/vesperal"> Beaubleu Ecce Vesperal</a> is offered at &euro; 890 on the leather strap and the new collection<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/seconde_francaise"> Beaubleu Seconde Francaise</a> is sold from &euro; 1,490 on a leather strap as well. All Beaubleu prices on the brand's website.
The Beaubleu brand is independent and sells several thousand watches per year, all models combined. To choose the Beaubleu model that best suits you, <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/seconde_francaise/20.24_gris_perle/review/66607be37f15bc103d620fe3">Dialicious owners' reviews on Beaubleu</a> are a valuable resource for evaluating the different models through the real experience of the brand's customers.
Check out the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands"> Ranking of the best French watch brands</a>, including Beaubleu.
(Updated November 2024)

Orient Bambino Small Seconds Owner Review : Elegant, reliable and efficient

The best possible entry level for a dress watch!

Pros & Cons for this watch

Other reviews published by Invictus_S_e_r_g_i_o

Tudor
Black Bay 41

Omega
Speedmaster Apollo 11

Rolex
Datejust 41

TAG Heuer
Aquaracer 300M

Rolex
Air-King

Breitling
Superocean Heritage B20

Tudor
Black Bay Chrono

Orient Bambino Small Seconds Owner Review : Elegant, reliable and efficient

The best possible entry level for a dress watch!

Pros & Cons for this watch

Other reviews published by Invictus_S_e_r_g_i_o

TudorBlack Bay 41

OmegaSpeedmaster Apollo 11

RolexDatejust 41

TAG HeuerAquaracer 300M

RolexAir-King

BreitlingSuperocean Heritage B20

TudorBlack Bay Chrono

Tudor
Black Bay 41

Omega
Speedmaster Apollo 11

Rolex
Datejust 41

TAG Heuer
Aquaracer 300M

Rolex
Air-King

Breitling
Superocean Heritage B20

Tudor
Black Bay Chrono