SICURA Globetrotter 21 rubies with manual winding.
This is a very unusual watch from the 70s thanks to its triple hour hand and its colored bezel. Indeed, beyond the classic hand, there is also a GMT hand and especially an improbable NYT (New York Time) hand. They work together when setting the time.
The 41mm case has a very beautiful black dial with tritium dots and numbers as well as a date window at 3 o'clock. The bi-directional yellow and blue aluminum bezel allows you to know the time of the 24 cities listed in the flange.
The case back uses the brand's traditional cabinets.
The movement often remains Sicura's negative point since their goal was to offer Swiss watches at a lower cost. My copy has a modest EB 8027 caliber (Ebauches Bettlach). Note that there are also automatic versions.
At an auction, its originality, its colored bezel and its magnificent hands seduced me.

GMT globetrotter watch and especially NYT (New York time)!

Rado Captain Cook bronze bordeaux (ref: R32504407). This watch has a special flavor for me because I fell in love with it about 1 year ago. I am a modest amateur online poker player and I challenged myself to finance it with my winnings. It has been a source of motivation for me to work on my game but also of self-denial because I have spent an average of 4 evenings per week "grinding" for almost 1 year to collect the necessary 2300€. It required so much effort from me that the pleasure of wearing it is immeasurable! This is a superb 42 mm diver's watch, water-resistant to 300 meters with its screw-down crown. The case is made of brushed bronze. However, this is a special alloy since classic bronze is a mixture of copper and tin while this one is made of copper and aluminum (copper-aluminum or CuAl). The objective is to reduce oxidation as much as possible to greatly limit the patina. The case back engraved with 3 seahorses is made of titanium. The red ceramic bezel is slightly concave, which gives it the curve of a Roman amphitheater. The dial is beautifully sunlit with chocolate tones against the light. The date in red is located at 3 o'clock and changes in a flash at midnight (top!). Finally, the dial proudly displays the Rado coat of arms at 12 o'clock, which represents an anchor that moves with the movements of the wrist.
The burgundy nato strap with its gold edging and bronze buckles is of excellent quality and goes perfectly with this flamboyant timepiece.
The power reserve is 80 hours thanks to the Rado 763 automatic caliber (a modified ETA C07 base).
Regarding the few minor drawbacks, we can note the noise of the 120-click unidirectional bezel which is a bit "cheap" as well as a significant amount of play. Finally, I think that this diver would have deserved an ISO 6425 "Diver's watch" certification.
If you are looking for a bronze watch, I can only recommend this model which certainly will not go unnoticed but will offer you a visual spectacle at all times.
A very nice alternative to the Tudor black bay bronze....

I came, I saw, I conquered

Citizen Bullhead "Challenge Timer" from November 1972. This is a model that I absolutely wanted to have in my collection for its endearing look, its technical characteristics as well as for its reputation that continues to grow.
So I went in search of my wild beast... After much research and in the middle of a jungle of tinkered parts or with horribly repainted dials I was finally able to find this model in excellent condition and totally original with a beautiful patina. It was mounted on its original steel bracelet but I then found a Nato that fits it perfectly!
Concerning the operation, the push buttons are very smooth with this caliber 8110A equipped with a column wheel. In addition to the automatic winding, day and date functions, it has a chronograph with the "Fly back" function. It should be noted that apart from the chronograph, the Bullhead does not have a second hand. Its only small flaw is its crown nestled between the 2 pushers which is very small and which is wound with the fingernails...
I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of manufacture and finish as well as its formidable precision even after more than 50 years of service.
In conclusion, if you like chronos and are looking for a watch that has style, you will fall like me under the spell of this little bull full of vigor and character!

The Little Wild Bull

Breitling Chronomat ref: B13050.1 (produced in the mid-90s)

Automatic chronograph equipped with the Valjoux 7750 caliber. My model has the particularity of having the 4 riders as well as the logo applied in 18K gold.

I fell for its silver dial which contrasts magnificently with the gold parts. The guilloché on half of the surface gives it a real elegance without overloading the watch.

The 3 circled sub-counters are adorned with very fine micro-grooves. The unbalance of the chrono hand proudly displaying the brand logo contributes to the distinguished charm of the beauty.

In short, it seduced me from the first glance....

Dressed with its alligator strap, it is also very pleasant to wear with its contained diameter of 39mm.

Two small remarks concerning the crown that I do not find very grippable as well as the screws and riders that can get caught in clothes.

The Chronomat is an icon of the brand in the same way as the Navitimer and this is explained by its immediately identifiable bezel but also its timeless charm and of course an irreproachable quality of finish.

No need for wings to fly!

(Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial/ Hesalite/ solid case back/ steel bracelet /Reference: 310.30.42.50.01.001) After having dreamed of this legendary model on the Internet for a long time, I was able to try it out in store at the beginning of 2022. It was love at first sight as soon as I put it on my wrist! Its acquisition became an obsession and I took the plunge in June 2022 through an online professional. I chose the Hesalite model to get a little closer to the historic model (I recommend installing an invisible protective shell on the glass to avoid scratches as I did). The proportions of this chronograph are simply perfect and the timeless design means that you can't get tired of it. The fully brushed steel bracelet is exceptionally comfortable. The clasp is also beautiful but quite fragile to scratches (I put an invisible tape to keep its original freshness...). The readability is perfect and what a pleasure to admire the Omega logo floating above the dial. What pride to have the famous co-axial movement and to wear such an emblematic watch. Every time I put it on my wrist, I feel the same happiness! I read a lot of testimonials from watch enthusiasts who talk about this watch as a Grail that many dream of acquiring one day... Thanks to my experience, I can reassure them and tell them that they are right to want this piece because it is simply exceptional!

A watchmaking Grail!

(Citizen Promaster Marine Ref: NY0141-10L). I was looking for a real diving watch that was not too expensive to go to the beach in the summer. I quickly chose this superb Citizen.
This model was worn in the 90s by divers of the Italian army. Its robustness is also highlighted thanks to the famous story of this Promaster found on an Australian beach covered with concretions after spending several years in the water and which was still working....
I was immediately attracted by this pretty blue sunray dial, its crown at 8 o'clock and its sharp aluminum bezel which give it an aggressive and sporty look.
Citizen has taken into account the remarks that had been made on the previous model by equipping this Promaster with the in-house 8204 movement with stop seconds and a precise 120-click bezel without the slightest play. The most important improvement is the presence on this new model of a sapphire crystal!
This model at less than 300€ is ISO 6425 certified, i.e. "Diving watch" 

The readability is excellent and it is a real flashlight in the dark. The polyurethane strap with its extensions for diving suits is quite pleasant but has the unfortunate tendency to get dirty.
Similarly, we can regret the abandonment of the engraving of the Promaster logo on the case back as well as this new crown that I find a little less beautiful.
Finally, its 44 mm is very well worn thanks to a very contained horn to horn.
In conclusion, I can only recommend this Citizen if you are looking for a diving watch with a rather atypical look and which will accompany you perfectly in your nautical escapades!

Guaranteed to make a splash without flopping!

(Sea-gull 1963 (reissue); 40mm; sapphire crystal and open back). This mechanical chronograph is an icon and is very successful thanks in particular to its affordable price (paid €177 in 2021). The original model was developed in the early 1960s by the Tianjin manufacturer at the request of the Chinese government in order to equip its air force pilots. The on-board ST1901 movement is inspired by the Venus 175 which equipped Breitlings in particular. My model is a little different from the historical model because I chose it in 40mm with a domed sapphire crystal and an open back. On the other hand, the Kanji writing at 6 o'clock is on 2 lines (unlike the majority of recent models). This is one of the many reissues (cloning? Counterfeit?) from the land of the rising sun but I cannot certify that it really comes from the Sea-gull manufacture...
With its champagne dial on which its applied gold indexes, its blue hands and its red second hand are placed, this watch has a deliciously vintage look. The show continues on the back of the wide open case with this magnificent ST1901 movement with its column wheel and blue screws... A treat!. Despite the plastic ring which is unfortunately quite visible around the movement and the minute hand of the chrono which wanders a little when it is engaged and I move my wrist too much (the defect of my model), I am rather seduced by the general aesthetics of this timepiece. If you choose this chrono, you must take into account the sometimes random quality and the risk of receiving a defective copy without any guarantee of real after-sales service (many testimonials on the net). Likewise, in the event of a mechanical problem, it will be difficult to find a watchmaker who will agree to plunge his hands into the engine...

The essential chronograph to start your collection

Seiko five sports (ref: SNZG11K1). This is one of my first mechanical watches and I am amazed by the exceptional quality/price ratio. Indeed, the stepped dial is pleasant to look at as is the applied logo and the seconds hand with its red tip. I also love its 42mm brushed case and the open back on the 7s36 movement. The nylon strap is pleasant but a little too wide for my taste (22 mm). I have 2 small negative points to note nevertheless: The glass which is in Hardlex (still sensitive to scratches..) and the watch is wound only by the movements of the wrist (impossible to wind it with the crown..). In conclusion, I can say that this Seiko offers for less than 150€, a reliable, precise, very readable automatic watch, water-resistant to 100m, etc. .... In short, you get your money's worth!

Ideal watch for beginners in watchmaking

(LIP Himalaya blue hourglass; Ref: 67575). This is a gift from my wife for our wedding anniversary. This watch is very elegant and catches the eye thanks to its mirror-polished case and its beautifully skeletonized blue dial. Its domed sapphire crystal, applied indexes and very particular skeletonization give it a lot of elegance. The open back shows us the Myota 8N24 caliber (a bit of a shame..) but which works perfectly and whose rotor is a real spinning top... The brown leather strap is of good quality and very comfortable. This is one of the many modern variations of Maurice Herzog's Himalaya and it is always very rewarding to wear a watch with such historical heritage. A beautiful dress watch for less than €400!

A Himalayan LIP that reaches the heights of elegance!

Seiko five (ref: SNK809K2). This is my wife's daily. This military-style Seiko is very readable thanks to the contrast between the whiteness of the hands and the hours/minutes typography with the navy blue dial. The day and date are also very well integrated since they keep these same codes. My wife chose a fabric strap with a red border recalling the end of the second hand and which feminizes it a little more. The 37mm case includes the entry-level automatic caliber 7S26 but which remains of impeccable quality. It turns at 21600 vibrations per hour. This 7s26 has the particularity of recharging in both directions thanks to the "Magic Lever" system. Unfortunately, it is impossible to wind it manually and the power reserve of only 40 hours is a little short if you stay a day without too many activities...
However, I recommend this Seiko if you have a small budget and are looking for a simple and efficient everyday watch that goes everywhere.

Simple and incredibly effective

(Vostok Commander ref: 280684). This Russian watch is normally equipped with the 2414A movement with 17 jewels and is water-resistant to 100 meters. The model I have is fitted with the 2416B movement with 31 jewels and is water-resistant to 200 meters.... (How lucky!). This very rustic watch exudes solidity at the expense of finesse. The engravings and the writing in Cyrillic on the case back are superb. The very metallic sound of the ticking of the watch is a pleasure for the ear. The winding is also very pleasant. On the other hand, the watch is not very comfortable to wear because it is very heavy with a large horn to horn (it is not for chicken wrists!). The bezel is bi-directional and without a click. The brightness is also quite low. This is an iconic model of Eastern European watchmaking. In conclusion, we can say that this is an atypical, very robust watch that will perfectly accompany all adventurers for a really low price.

A piece of steel on the wrist!

(Casio W-753) I have been wearing this watch for about fifteen years. It is incredibly solid! It is a little dented and the plastic has yellowed but it still works perfectly despite everything it has been through! The main advantage of this watch is the tide gauge which is very useful when you live by the sea like me! It also has countless other functions (moon phases, compass, chrono, countdown, GMT, several alarms, etc.). Setting the tide gauge is quite tedious but you can easily find tutorials on the internet. A real Swiss army knife, uh... Japanese!

She does everything! except vacuuming....

This little vintage Sea-Gull from the 70s is a little gem! At the time, authorization from the Communist Party was required to purchase this watch. Due to the very low standard of living of the population, it was the ideal and essential gift at weddings. This model became a reference in the country, particularly thanks to its ST-5 movement. This is decorated by hand, which makes each model unique. Index and superb applied logo, champagne dial, faceted hand, red lollipop second, signed crown, engraved case back prove the excellent quality of manufacture. This is not at all a "Chinoiserie" and it is also nicknamed "The Chinese Rolex" It was after several months of research that I was able to get my hands on this model in perfect condition at a reasonable price. I managed to have it imported directly from a seller in China via Ebay. It keeps time perfectly and I found it a superb two-tone fabric strap that matches the dial perfectly. I highly recommend this model to any vintage collector on a budget. This is a very good quality piece with a fantastic history and impeccable movement. I love it and it's always a pleasure to wear it!

The Vintage Chinese Rolex

Rhula Mechanical Watch Ref: 23-13-05-56 KAL 24 vintage 1985/86 
The RUHLA brand takes its name from the city of RUHLA in the former East Germany (DDR). 
After reunification, the brand moved from the DDR to the GDR (West) as indicated between 5h and 6h. The caliber is of mediocre quality but the interest of this watch is rather historical. I fell for its pretty little face... Unfortunately, I wear it very little because its operation is quite random. I put a fabric strap on it in the same color as the dial which gives it a bit of modernity.

A survivor of German popular watchmaking

This sugess (belongs to seagull) carries with it a lot of complications for a mini price. It is sure that it is not very fine, nor very well finished but it allows to have a poetic moon phase. The dial is quite readable despite all the information present. The "blued" hands look very artificial and are the only really low-end elements at first glance.

A moon phase date chrono for less than 200 euros

A Chinese watch made exclusively for export… 

Typical of the late 1970s (Deng Xiaoping period, post Mao). 
A fun watch that could be found in the markets of major Chinese cities, sold to the rare tourists of the time for $1 US… and later (early 80s) in Europe and France for 50 francs… 
You can still find them on the internet for between €20 and €30. 

This watch has a dial on a red background and more “rarely” on a blue background. 
On the dial is Chairman MAO, with a photo so kitsch… that it is impossible to resist the great leap forward… to buy one. (This is just my opinion…) 

The blurry photo on the dial looks like a low-quality paper print… 
The arm swings and swings with a regular back-and-forth movement, this arm is also quite blurry and malformed like the main image on the dial. Chairman Mao's arm is therefore oscillating (a fun complication) and works independently of the seconds hand... The seconds hand ends with a red star!
The hands look like those of old cheap diving watches... with a green lume.

The movement of the watch is a 17 jewels from the ZLN factory (in business since 1957). Movement that has been modified specifically, to operate Chairman Mao's arm...
ZLN is the watch factory of the Liaoning Peacock Watch Company, Ltd (still in business), in the city of Dandong, Liaoning province.

This movement, with manual winding, works approximately 24 hours, variation of +10 minutes in 24 hours...
The operation of the arm is very erratic, you often have to shake the watch to make the arm move...
But it ends up working!

The case is approximately 36 mm made of a kind of chromed metal, the horns are oddly shaped.
The glass is slightly domed and has a slight greenish tint (on older models), perhaps the lume has evaporated... (Radium or Tritium, the latter being supposed to be less harmful to health...).

In conclusion...
As Chairman Mao said: A revolutionary recognizes his mistakes and repairs them immediately...
Today, the Chinese watch industry has perfectly received the message...

Finally, forgive my impertinence, to all lovers of fine watchmaking.

An oscillating complication!

La marque Ollech &amp; Wajs a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 1956 par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs &agrave; Zurich en Suisse. Albert &eacute;tait charg&eacute; de la conception, de l&rsquo;ing&eacute;nierie et de la fabrication des montres, tandis que Joseph s&rsquo;occupait du marketing et de la vente au d&eacute;tail. Avant de cr&eacute;er leur propre montres sous la marque Ollech &amp; Wajs, ils ont commenc&eacute; leur activit&eacute; en 1954 en fabriquant des bracelets en acier pour d&rsquo;autres marques.
La marque est connue pour avoir distribu&eacute; des montres &agrave; des unit&eacute;s de l&rsquo;arm&eacute;e am&eacute;ricaine pendant la guerre du Vietnam et pour avoir gagn&eacute; sa renomm&eacute;e aupr&egrave;s des plongeurs et pilotes du monde entier.
Apr&egrave;s 12 ans de n&eacute;gociation et apr&egrave;s avoir &eacute;t&eacute; son distributeur pour le march&eacute; fran&ccedil;ais, en 2017, Charles Le Menestrel, un passionn&eacute; d&rsquo;horlogerie, rach&egrave;te la marque. La gamme actuelle comprend des mod&egrave;les comme la Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/p-104">Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104</a>, la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/c-1000">Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000</a>, la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/ocean_graph">Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph</a> et la Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron.
<h2>Combien co&ucirc;te une montre Ollech &amp; Wajs ?</h2>
Les prix des montres Ollech &amp; Wajs &eacute;voluent et diff&egrave;rent selon les mod&egrave;les. La plupart co&ucirc;tent entre CHF 1,500 et CHF 2,000 selon les mod&egrave;les et les finitions. Comptez CHF 1,456 pour une Ollech &amp; Wajs 350CI et pr&egrave;s de CHF 2,300 pour une Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron Chronographe. Le march&eacute; de l'occasion est &eacute;galement une opportunit&eacute; &agrave; regarder pour acheter une Ollech &amp; Wajs moins ch&egrave;re. Les mod&egrave;les Vintage notamment les Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron et&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/astrochron">Ollech &amp; Wajs Astrochron</a>, sont tr&egrave;s pris&eacute;es des collectionneurs et ils convient de bien se renseigner sur le vendeur avant de franchir le pas de l'acquisition d'une vintage.
Ollech &amp; Wajs est une marque de montres ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines de montres par an, tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une Ollech &amp; Wajs qui vous correspond le mieux,&nbsp;les avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Octobre 2024)

The brand Ollech &amp; Wajs was created in 1956 by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs in Zurich, Switzerland. Albert was responsible for the design, engineering and manufacturing of the watches, while Joseph handled marketing and retail sales. Before creating their own watches under the brand Ollech &amp; Wajs, they started their business in 1954 making steel bracelets for other brands.
The brand is known for distributing watches to units of the American army during the Vietnam War and for having earned its reputation among divers and pilots around the world.
After 12 years of negotiations and after having been its distributor for the French market, in 2017, Charles Le Menestrel, a watchmaking enthusiast, bought the brand. The current range includes models like the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/p-104"> Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/c-1000"> Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/ocean_graph"> Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph</a> and the Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does an Ollech &amp; Wajs watch cost?</h2>
The prices of Ollech &amp; Wajs watches change and differ depending on the model. Most cost between CHF 1,500 and CHF 2,000 depending on the models and finishes. Expect to pay CHF 1,456 for an Ollech &amp; Wajs 350CI and close to CHF 2,300 for an Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron Chronograph. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a cheaper Ollech &amp; Wajs. Vintage models including the Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron and<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/astrochron"> Ollech &amp; Wajs Astrochron</a>, are very popular with collectors and they should find out about the seller before taking the step of purchasing a vintage one.
Ollech &amp; Wajs is an independent watch brand and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an Ollech &amp; Wajs that best suits you, Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real owner experience.
Consult the<a href="https://preprod.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands"> Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.
(Updated October 2024)

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Sea-Gull Owner Review : Generous, singular and endearing

The Vintage Chinese Rolex

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