The must-have Macro Loupe for all watch lovers

Here is the Polerouter 204605, this Universal Genève which is elegant and beautiful at the same time, this marriage of color which goes well between gold and black. I wear it almost every day, it dates from 1964 and has hardly aged a day, discreet to wear with its diameter of 36, and so light, I sometimes have the impression of having lost it from my wrist. It has undergone a light cleaning: the part which wears the most is the cover. We are starting to no longer see the Universal Genève logo as well as these two serial numbers hidden on the back of the watch

I never get tired of it

<p dir="ltr"><strong>Universal Gen&egrave;ve</strong>, founded in <strong>1894</strong>, is a Swiss watch manufacturer renowned for its innovations and iconic designs. Over the decades, the brand has marked the history of watchmaking with flagship models and significant technical advances.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The Beginnings: 1894-1930</h2>
<p dir="ltr">In 1894, in Le Locle, Switzerland, Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret founded the Universal Watch company, specializing in the production of movements for pocket watches and wristwatches. After the premature death of Descombes in 1897, Perret joined forces with Louis-Edouard Berthoud, and the company was renamed Perret &amp; Berthoud. In 1919, the company moved to Geneva, thus strengthening its Swiss identity. During this period, Universal distinguished itself by the creation of chronograph wristwatches, a notable innovation at a time when pocket watches dominated the market.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Expansion et Innovations : 1930-1950</h2>
<p dir="ltr">In the 1930s, Universal Gen&egrave;ve became known for its high-quality chronographs. In 1936, the <strong>brand launches the &ldquo;Compax&rdquo;</strong>, the first wrist chronograph with two subdials, followed in 1944 by the "Tri-Compax", incorporating complications such as the complete calendar and the moon phase. These models met with international success, strengthening the reputation of the brand. In 1937, <strong>the company officially adopts the name Universal Gen&egrave;ve</strong>, symbolizing its attachment to the city and its commitment to watchmaking excellence.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The Polerouter and Microtor Era: 1950-1970</h2>
<p dir="ltr">In 1954, Universal Geneva presented the "Polerouter", <strong>designed by the young designer G&eacute;rald Genta</strong>. This model, initially named "Polarouter", celebrates the inaugural flights of the Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) above the North Pole. The Polerouter is equipped with the micro-rotor caliber 215, an innovation that reduces the thickness of the movement while maintaining optimal performance. This period is marked by the introduction of the "Golden Shadow" series in 1965, equipped with caliber 66, then the thinnest automatic movement in the world with a thickness of only 2.3 mm.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Challenges and Adaptations: 1970-1990</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The 1970s brought major challenges with the quartz crisis. Universal Gen&egrave;ve, like many Swiss manufacturers, must adapt to this new technology. The brand introduces quartz models, but this transition affects its position in the market. In 1989, Universal Gen&egrave;ve was acquired by the Hong Kong group Stelux Holdings International Ltd., also owner of the Cyma brand. This acquisition aims to revitalize the brand by combining Swiss heritage with a strategy oriented towards the Asian market.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Renaissance and Future Perspectives: 2000 to Today</h2>
<p dir="ltr">In the early 2000s, Universal Gen&egrave;ve attempted to reconnect with its heritage by relaunching iconic models and emphasizing innovation. In 2007, the brand presented a new collection based on Microtor, a technology it had initially developed in 1955. This initiative aims to attract fans of classic watches while integrating modern elements.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In December 2023, <strong>Stelux Holdings sells Universal Gen&egrave;ve to Breitling SA</strong>, marking a new stage in the history of the brand. This acquisition by Breitling, another renowned Swiss watch house, raises hopes of a renaissance for Universal Gen&egrave;ve, with plans to revive the production of new models by 2026.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Impact and Legacy</h2>
<p dir="ltr">Universal Gen&egrave;ve has played a crucial role in the evolution of watchmaking, particularly through its innovations in chronographs and automatic movements. Collaboration with renowned designers, such as G&eacute;rald Genta, has allowed the brand to create timeless models that remain popular with collectors. Despite the challenges encountered over the decades, the legacy of Universal Gen&egrave;ve endures, and the recent acquisition by Breitling offers a promising outlook for the future of this historic brand.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In conclusion, <strong>Universal Gen&egrave;ve embodies the innovation and elegance of Swiss watchmaking</strong>. With a history rich in iconic creations and technical advances, the brand has left an indelible mark on the world of watchmaking. The new era that is coming under the aegis of Breitling is impatiently awaited by enthusiasts and collectors, hoping for a renaissance to match its prestigious past.</p>
<p dir="ltr">To choose the Universal Gen&egrave;ve model that best suits you, the <strong>Dialicious owners&rsquo; reviews</strong> are an essential resource for evaluating different models through real customer experience</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated November 2024)</p>

Small precision watch, faithful, beautiful, elegant, always on time, fine, because it uses a microrotor of about 9mm, a watch that travels our time beyond the lives of men, a re-rigged, it is not possible to see the movement of this watch, it lacks the transparency of the bottom, too bad...

Gorgeous

This watch has always been a watchmaking dream for me, constantly repeating to my friends during our discussions around watches that one day, I would own a Polerouter.

I had to wait maybe 3 years before it came true, this watch that I scrutinized from time to time on resale sites, always impressed me with its history and style.

With its contained diameter, its magnificent twisted horns, its dial equipped with a peripheral flange, this gives all the elegance, the brilliance and the depth that sets it apart from other watches for me.

But each time in front of the ads, it was the search for the perfect watch. Beware of repainted dials, service crowns and consequently prices that fluctuate from single to triple depending on the copies, all this makes me doubt.

After endless research, I finally found the copy that suited me, gold-plated case in good condition, dial that had apparently not been repainted and was starting to patina with small bubbles on it.

Delighted with my purchase, I continued my research by also looking at the spare parts categories of this iconic model.

And it was then with surprise that I came across a copy that was the complete opposite of what I was initially looking for. A watch with a patinated "Polerouter Deluxe" dial that had become tobacco-colored, gold-plated case in good condition but which did not correspond to the original since a "Deluxe" normally has an 18k gold case. This watch is sold at an unbeatable price (€400) since its owner is aware of these weaknesses.

It is ultimately for this tobacco copy that I have a crush, these defects make it for me a unique watch with a crazy charm.

After receiving the two watches, I am now preparing to resell the first copy and keep the bad little duck, it is for me a story that sums up my watchmaking passion, love at first sight before rationality.

I will nevertheless scrutinize possible solid gold dials in order to restore all the nobility that this copy deserves.

a flawless story and style

One of Gerald Genta's first creations, the Polerouter Date is a charming watch with a special light. 
Its microrotor was a novelty on the watch market at the time. A piece of watchmaking history on your wrist that makes it original and unique. Small dimensions (35 mm) that make it desirable for small wrists like mine.


A historic design

<p>La marque <strong>Ollech &amp; Wajs</strong> a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en <strong>1956</strong> par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs &agrave; Zurich en Suisse. Albert &eacute;tait charg&eacute; de la conception, de l&rsquo;ing&eacute;nierie et de la fabrication des montres, tandis que Joseph s&rsquo;occupait du marketing et de la vente au d&eacute;tail. Avant de cr&eacute;er leur propre montres sous la marque Ollech &amp; Wajs, ils ont commenc&eacute; leur activit&eacute; en 1954 en fabriquant des bracelets en acier pour d&rsquo;autres marques.</p>
<p>La marque est connue pour avoir distribu&eacute; des montres &agrave; des unit&eacute;s de l&rsquo;arm&eacute;e am&eacute;ricaine pendant la guerre du Vietnam et pour avoir gagn&eacute; sa renomm&eacute;e aupr&egrave;s des plongeurs et pilotes du monde entier.</p>
<p>Apr&egrave;s 12 ans de n&eacute;gociation et apr&egrave;s avoir &eacute;t&eacute; son distributeur pour le march&eacute; fran&ccedil;ais, en 2017, Charles Le Menestrel, un passionn&eacute; d&rsquo;horlogerie, rach&egrave;te la marque. La gamme actuelle comprend des mod&egrave;les comme la Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/p-104">Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104</a>, la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/c-1000">Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000</a>, la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/ocean_graph">Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph</a> et la Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron.</p>
<h2>Combien co&ucirc;te une montre Ollech &amp; Wajs ?</h2>
<p>Les prix des montres Ollech &amp; Wajs &eacute;voluent et diff&egrave;rent selon les mod&egrave;les. <strong>La plupart co&ucirc;tent entre CHF 1,500 et CHF 2,000 selon les mod&egrave;les et les finitions</strong>. Comptez <strong>CHF 1,456</strong> pour une Ollech &amp; Wajs 350CI et pr&egrave;s de <strong>CHF 2,300</strong> pour une Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron Chronographe. Le march&eacute; de l'occasion est &eacute;galement une opportunit&eacute; &agrave; regarder pour acheter une Ollech &amp; Wajs moins ch&egrave;re. Les mod&egrave;les Vintage notamment les Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron et&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/astrochron">Ollech &amp; Wajs Astrochron</a>, sont tr&egrave;s pris&eacute;es des collectionneurs et ils convient de bien se renseigner sur le vendeur avant de franchir le pas de l'acquisition d'une vintage.</p>
<p><strong>Ollech &amp; Wajs</strong> est une marque de montres ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines de montres par an, tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une Ollech &amp; Wajs qui vous correspond le mieux,&nbsp;<strong>les avis clients Dialicious</strong> sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.</p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses"><span class="s2">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</span></a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.</span></p>
<p class="p1">(Mise &agrave; jour Octobre 2024)</p>

<p dir="ltr">The brand <strong>Ollech &amp; Wajs</strong> was created in <strong>1956</strong> by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs in Zurich, Switzerland. Albert was responsible for the design, engineering and manufacturing of the watches, while Joseph handled marketing and retail sales. Before creating their own watches under the brand Ollech &amp; Wajs, they started their business in 1954 making steel bracelets for other brands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The brand is known for distributing watches to units of the American army during the Vietnam War and for having earned its reputation among divers and pilots around the world.</p>
<p dir="ltr">After 12 years of negotiations and after having been its distributor for the French market, in 2017, Charles Le Menestrel, a watchmaking enthusiast, bought the brand. The current range includes models like the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/p-104">Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104</a>, the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/c-1000">Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/ocean_graph"> Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph</a> and the Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does an Ollech &amp; Wajs watch cost?</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The prices of Ollech &amp; Wajs watches change and differ depending on the model. <strong>Most cost between CHF 1,500 and CHF 2,000 depending on the models and finishes</strong>. Expect to pay <strong>CHF </strong><strong>1,456</strong> for an Ollech &amp; Wajs 350CI and close to <strong>CHF </strong><strong>2,300</strong> for an Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron Chronograph. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a cheaper Ollech &amp; Wajs. Vintage models including the Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron and&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/astrochron">Ollech &amp; Wajs Astrochron</a>, are very popular with collectors and they should find out about the seller before taking the step of purchasing a vintage one.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Ollech &amp; Wajs is an independent watch brand and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an Ollech &amp; Wajs that best suits you, <strong>Dialicious owners' reviews</strong> are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real owner experience.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated October 2024)</p>

<p dir="ltr">The <strong>Universal Gen&egrave;ve Polerouter Date</strong> is an iconic watch that embodies the timeless elegance and watchmaking innovation of the Swiss brand Universal Gen&egrave;ve. Designed by the famous designer G&eacute;rald Genta, this watch marked the 1950s and continues to be popular with collectors and vintage watch enthusiasts.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Origins and Design</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Polerouter, originally named Polarouter, was launched in 1954 to celebrate the inaugural transpolar flights of the Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) linking Copenhagen to Los Angeles via the North Pole. <strong>G&eacute;rald Genta, then a young 23-year-old designer</strong>, was tasked with creating a watch capable of withstanding the extreme conditions of these flights. Its innovative and elegant design immediately appealed.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The watch is distinguished by its three-dimensional dial in two parts: a circular ring with hour markers fixed on the periphery of the glass and a central dial fixed on the movement. This unique design, patented by Universal in September 1953, gives the watch a distinctive visual depth.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Evolution towards the Polerouter Date</h3>
<p dir="ltr">In 1955, the watch was renamed Polerouter. Over the years, various versions have been introduced, <strong>including the Polerouter Date</strong>, equipped with a date window at 3 o'clock. This added functionality enhanced the practicality of the watch while maintaining its refined aesthetic.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Movement and Technology</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Polerouter Date is powered by the <strong>UG 215 caliber</strong>, an automatic <strong>micro-rotor movement</strong> introduced in 1958. This innovative movement, with a thickness of just 4.10 mm, was one of the thinnest of its time. The micro-rotor allowed for a thinner design without compromising the efficiency of the automatic winding.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Design and Materials</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Polerouter Date's case is available in stainless steel, gold plated, and solid gold, providing a variety of options for consumers. The <strong>dial often features a sunburst or satin finish</strong>, with applied indexes and dauphine hands, reflecting the style of the 1950s. The domed acrylic glass adds a vintage touch to the whole.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Impact and Legacy</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Polerouter Date helped establish Universal Gen&egrave;ve's reputation as an innovative and elegant brand. Its timeless design and advanced technology for its time make it <strong>a sought-after piece by collectors</strong>. The watch is also notable for being one of the first designs of G&eacute;rald Genta, who would later become one of the most influential watch designers.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Conclusion</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Universal Gen&egrave;ve Polerouter Date is more than just a watch; it represents a successful fusion between innovative design and technical excellence. Its rich history and timeless aesthetic continue to captivate watch enthusiasts around the world.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Learn more about the Polerouter Date with <strong>Dialicious customer reviews</strong> and make the right choice with the help of other customers</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated March 2025)</p>

Universal Genève Polerouter Date Owner Review : Beautiful, pleasant and discreet

I never get tired of it

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