Doxa SUB 200T - References, Prices and Owners' Reviews

Wearing only divers because I am a fan and practice many water sports, I wanted to buy my first Swiss watch after several years spent with "toolwatches" costing less than €500. In the idea, I wanted to find a durable watch that I could have serviced and keep for several decades ideally. After several months of reflection, I turned to Doxa. First of all, I was looking for a watch with 4 invariable criteria: 39mm case or less + 20ATM minimum + sapphire crystal + 4htz automatic movement; and 3 secondary criteria: solid + original + historic brand. All under €2000. So I bought this Doxa from Clouzeau, which is to my knowledge the only Doxa distributor in France, whom I thank for his availability and advice. This is the smallest model of the brand with 39mm in diameter, 10.7mm thick and especially 41.5mm from lug to lug (and a lug width of 18mm). The typical Doxa case is superb and heavy. The top is completely brushed and the sides and the bottom are polished. The glass is flat, exactly at the same level as the bezel. Its -its?- anti-reflective treatment is superb, I have never seen a watch whose glass fades so much no matter the angle (if we put aside the "hydro"). Superb 120-click bezel (I would have preferred 60, 120 brings nothing for me) with a notch that allows exemplary grip -probably the best grip I have seen on a diver. The double bezel insert is all steel: the large one in mirror polish with orange feet, and the small one brushed with the minutes. The numbers are engraved and painted, the durability promises to be total. The scale used is no longer relevant for diving, and is in feet - why not meters, a mystery for a Swiss brand - but the historical wink is pleasant. The typical Doxa hands are there with the huge minute and the small hour, all painted in a uniform waxed black. The "lolipop" of the seconds is square with a large lume insert. The indexes are simply painted with two black borders framing the superluminova disc. I must say that this is my biggest disappointment on this model: the lume is extremely weak, hilarious for me after all the affordable divers I have had and which all lit up brighter and longer (I am thinking in particular of Citizen and Seiko, but also all the microbrands that I have worn). The inscriptions are simple but well proportioned to my taste with Doxa Automatic in the NNW part and SUB200T + the name of the color (here professional) in the SSE part. Written in black, I find that they are both very visible but discreet on the dial of the classic strong and mythical orange of Doxa here in the "Iconic" version, that is to say matte (in opposition to the "Sunray" for sunray). The color is really impressive in all brightnesses, and the contrast with the set of black hands is impressively readable at dawn and dusk in particular. Underwater less: orange is the second color to disappear underwater (after red) between 10 and 15 meters. The date is simply circled in black, and the disc is white, whiter than the superluminova of the indexes and hands which appear a little yellowed in comparison. For the movement, nothing special to say for my part, very satisfied with this Sellita SW200-1 (strangely not declared by the brand) and announced decorated Doxa. Mine is between -2 and +3s/day depending on the conditions. The case is closed by a solid screwed back and well decorated and not quite flat. The crown is easy to handle and very very well protected by the side of the watch. We also find the Doxa logo painted in orange (not dependent on the color of the dial), more original but probably less durable than an engraving. Not being a fan of steel bracelets that I often find uncomfortable and ostentatious, I hesitated for a long time, but if I had to take a Doxa, I had to choose this grain of rice. Especially since the brand sells its bracelets (rubber as steel) at completely disproportionate prices. It is superb. Heavy, solid, flexible, it inspires real confidence. The endlink fits the case well, it's a fake 18mm because it widens as soon as it comes out of the lugs, and then makes the same width). The grains of rice are mirror polished and the edges are brushed lengthwise. It is immediately recognizable. The folding clasp is a marvel of practicality with the sliding extension that is very easy to do with the watch on the wrist. As practical as it is imposing, it seemed huge to me but does not bother. I just find it aesthetically disproportionate. In any case, the bracelet is very successful. On the other hand, it is very -too?- flashy I find and shines brightly in the sun, the silver bracelet effect is very 80s diver for me. The watch is delivered in a white cardboard box, containing the certificate, a neoprene type transport box and a neck strap. Rather practical than beautiful/noble therefore. For information my wrist is between 16.5 and 17cm. Thanks for reading and see you soon!