The desire to treat myself to an elegant mechanical watch is at the origin of this acquisition. I wanted it to be rectangular, with European mechanics, both modern and retro. My patience was rewarded when LIP presented this limited series of 180 pieces. Today, it is the only one in my collection in this style, I wear it on rare occasions, mostly dinners and it is always with undisguised pleasure that I put it on my wrist.
Mechanical, I have to wind it daily and the crown is very thin, which does not make winding easy. This is the only black point noted. It is not solid gold, it is a gold plating and not a pvd or dlc treatment.

Rare and elegant

For almost 15 years, I had been eyeing the Pilot.. previously in 43mm and only in black (steel or ceramic case), it seemed even more imposing than it was.
April 2021, IWC released the 41mm version in different shades, sunray blue and green, each with the date and day on a white background, on leather or 5-link steel bracelet with EasX-CHANGE system allowing you to change the bracelet in one go and a very practical micro adjustment to the buckle (even if it is less accomplished than that of Rolex), this pilot is now water-resistant to 100m compared to 60m previously.
Decided to put them on the wrist at the AD, I find them successful due to their typical IWC finish, a new manufacture movement equips them (after years where it was equipped with the excellent ETA 7750), this does not bring much in terms of power reserve and precision (+5.75 seconds / day).
May 2022 I discovered in the press the presentation of a limited series of 500 pieces worldwide (under reference IW388107), this one celebrating the Chinese New Year with a tiger-shaped oscillating weight, the year 2022 engraved and the serial number on 500, a Burgundy leather strap (tending towards dark Bordeaux) and above all a red sunray dial, which depending on the inclination of the watch oscillates between wine lees, black, Bordeaux... I go to Paris and passing in front of the IWC window rue de la Paix, it is there alone proud, well highlighted, I go in and ask to pass it. Wow, hypnotic this dial, the date and day are well integrated with the same color as the dial. However, I prefer to focus on a Navitimer 41 (which I am currently getting for almost €2,000 less than the IWC) .. but after 3 months, I am tired of this cream dial with gold hands, tone on tone it is not very readable .. regrets finally because the Burgundy was sold quickly after my visit and no point looking elsewhere .. they were all sold in the first 6 months of 2022 .. I embark on a quest for months to search the net for a possibility of acquiring one but they are rare on the web and they are on the other side of the world ... then finally .. a magnificent piece is finally available a few weeks ago. Time to talk with its owner who acquired it in May 2022 ... a few days apart from my own test in Paris .. his acquired in the Netherlands and worn less than 5 times. We agree on the acquisition costs, a few days of waiting... the IWC Pilot barely received, I go to the IWC boutique to equip it with the magnificent 5-link bracelet and there it is, finally! a bomb, the softness of the pushers (more pleasant than on a speedmaster), it is very readable and for once it will not be easy for me to find one on someone's wrist.

Hypnotic

<p dir="ltr">The French watch brand <strong>LIP</strong> is an emblematic figure of the watch industry, recognized for his innovation, his avant-garde design and his history rich in twists and turns. Founded in <strong>1867</strong> in Besan&ccedil;on, LIP has gone through periods of glory, economic challenges and social struggles, while leaving an indelible mark in the history of French watchmaking.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The Beginnings: Foundation and Expansion (1867-1930)</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The history of LIP begins in 1867 when Emmanuel Lipmann founded a small watchmaking workshop in Besan&ccedil;on, the French capital of watchmaking. Initially named "Comptoir Lipmann", the workshop specializes in the manufacture of high quality pocket watches. In 1893, the company became the "<strong>Soci&eacute;t&eacute; Anonyme d'Horlogerie Lipmann Fr&egrave;res</strong>" and adopted the brand LIP, acronym of the founder's initials.</p>
<p dir="ltr">At the beginning of the 20th century, LIP stood out for its technical and aesthetic innovations. In 1904, the brand introduced the "Lip" pocket chronometer, which met with notable success. <strong>LIP is quickly positioning itself as a major player in French watchmaking</strong>, combining precision and elegance in its creations.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The Age of Innovation: The 1930s-1950s</h2>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Under the direction of Fred Lip</strong>, son of Ernest Lipmann, LIP enters a period of intense innovation. In 1933, the brand launched the model <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/t18">Lip T18</a>, a rectangular wristwatch equipped with a high-precision movement. This model became emblematic and <strong>was offered in 1948 to Winston Churchill</strong> in recognition of his role during the Second World War.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In the 1950s, LIP continued to innovate by introducing<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/electronic"> Lip Electronic</a> in 1952, the first French electronic watch. This model uses a quartz crystal to keep time, constituting a significant advancement in watchmaking technology. Lip offered at this time the first models<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/himalaya"> Lip Himalaya</a> which still remain in the catalog today.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1960s: Expansion and Avant-Garde Design</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The 1960s marked a period of expansion for LIP like the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/nautic-ski"> Lip Nautic-Ski</a> presented during the <strong>Grenoble Olympic Games in 1968</strong>. It was also the beginning of collaborations with renowned designers to create watches with innovative designs. In 1967, the brand called on Roger Tallon, famous industrial designer, to design the collection<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/mach_2000"> Lip Mach 2000</a>. These watches are distinguished by their futuristic aesthetic and their bold shapes, breaking with traditional watchmaking codes.</p>
<p dir="ltr">At the same time, LIP develops watches intended for specific uses, notably for pilots and divers, thus strengthening its reputation as a manufacturer of technical and reliable watches.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1970s: Crisis and Social Struggles</h2>
<p dir="ltr">Despite its successes, LIP faced financial difficulties at the end of the 1960s, exacerbated by international competition and changes in the watch market. In 1973, the company was placed in liquidation, triggering a series of strikes and factory occupations by workers. This social movement, known as "<strong>LIP Conflict</strong>", became emblematic of workers' struggles in France and attracted national media attention.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The employees, led by the trade unionist Charles Piaget, took control of production and continued to manufacture and sell watches under the slogan "It's possible: we make, we sell, we get paid!". This experiment in self-management aroused broad popular support and symbolized workers' resistance to factory closures.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1980s-1990s: Relaunch Attempts and Changes in Ownership</h2>
<p dir="ltr">After the liquidation of LIP in 1977, <strong>several attempts at revival were undertaken</strong>. In 1984, the brand was bought by the "Kipl&eacute;" company, but this initiative failed, leading to another liquidation in 1986. In 1990, the businessman Jean-Claude Sensemat acquired the brand and successfully relaunched production, relying on modern marketing methods and reissuing iconic models. Under his leadership, LIP experienced a renaissance and achieved significant sales.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The 2000s: Renewal and Modernization</h2>
<p dir="ltr">In 2002, Jean-Claude Sensemat signed a worldwide licensing contract with Jean-Luc Bernerd, who created the Manufacture G&eacute;n&eacute;rale Horlog&egrave;re in Lectoure, in the Gers region, to produce LIP watches. This collaboration makes it possible to modernize the collections while respecting the brand's heritage. LIP continues to offer reissues of historic models, while introducing new creations adapted to contemporary tastes.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">The 2010s: Back to Basics and Sustainable Development</h2>
<p dir="ltr">In 2015, the brand was bought by the "Soci&eacute;t&eacute; des Montres Bisontines" (SMB), based in Ch&acirc;tillon-le-Duc, near Besan&ccedil;on, France. This return to geographical sources marks a new stage in the history of LIP, which strengthens its local roots and its commitment to sustainable development. Production is relocated to France, and the brand strives to promote French watchmaking know-how. LIP continues to offer its emblematic collections which have marked its history, seeking to meet the expectations of modern consumers.</p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands"><span class="s2">Ranking of the most popular French watch brands</span></a>, including LIP.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated November 2024)</p>

In the history of LIP, the T18 has left its mark in a significant way. Indeed, this model from the 30s/40s, already appreciated for the quality of its caliber, was recognized when a solid gold copy was offered to Winston Churchill in 1948, becoming the "Churchill". It has been reissued since 1988, and is still in the LIP catalog, but with a Quartz (???!!) Ronda (?????????!!!!) movement. If you are looking for one, prefer an original like this one. Perhaps less precise, but more in the spirit of LIP.
(To be completely objective and precise, LIP also reissued the T18 with a gold-plated case and a movement in every way identical to that of the 30s, limited to 180 copies, for around €2,500 (all sold))
I bought mine at least 30 years ago. This is a watch that has always attracted me: as legitimate as a Cartier Tank, but less expensive (less well finished too, but you can't have everything at this price!).
Having lain dormant for about twenty years, it is a little worn, but it will be entitled to a complete overhaul by my watchmaker very soon. It will thus start up again more beautifully for several decades on my wrist.

An icon in its own right

LIP T18 watch, part of the first generation. This model was launched by LIP in the 1930s. 
We find several elements on the dial, first of all the old LIP logo, composed only of the 3 letters.
Also a small second at 6 o'clock and the blued hands. I particularly like the patina caused by the life of the watch.
Small watch that is worn rather with a dressy clothing style (suit shirt).
This small caliber offers in particular great lightness.

LIP T18 Vintage

<p>Cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 2017 par le designer Nicolas Ducoudert, <strong>Beaubleu apporte une dimension nouvelle &agrave; l&rsquo;horlogerie</strong> en cr&eacute;ant des montres &agrave; la fois esth&eacute;tiques, &eacute;tonnantes et profond&eacute;ment symboliques. Les aiguilles rondes, signature de la Maison, sont le reflet d&rsquo;une singularit&eacute; et d&rsquo;une simplicit&eacute; sophistiqu&eacute;e. Chaque mod&egrave;le arbore un design d&eacute;licieusement contemporain, o&ugrave; chaque d&eacute;tail, chaque surface, interagissent avec la lumi&egrave;re.</p>
<p>Cassant les codes de l'horlogerie traditionnelle en apportant une vision nouvelle du temps, les montres Beaubleu sortent des sentiers battus en arborant des aiguilles rondes et &eacute;vid&eacute;es, inspir&eacute;es des travaux de Galil&eacute;e dans sa compr&eacute;hension du syst&egrave;me solaire. Ces aiguilles affichent de mani&egrave;re po&eacute;tique les heures, qui ne pointent pas un index ni une graduation, mais qui indiquent une position, un instant depuis le centre du cadran.</p>
<h2>Quels sont les principaux mod&egrave;les de la marque Beaubleu ?</h2>
<p>Beaubleu vient d&rsquo;annoncer le 5 juin 2024, le lancement d&rsquo;une nouvelle collection en s&eacute;rie limit&eacute;e nomm&eacute;e <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/seconde_francaise">Beaubleu Seconde Fran&ccedil;aise</a>. Une belle innovation esth&eacute;tique et po&eacute;tique comme en a le secret la marque., avec une aiguille volante des secondes et un calibre fran&ccedil;ais de France &Eacute;bauches. <strong>La Beaubleu Seconde Fran&ccedil;aise fait partie des nomin&eacute;s au Grand Prix d''Horlogerie de Gen&egrave;ve 2024</strong>.&nbsp;</p>
<p>La collection <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/ecce">Beaubleu Ecce</a> reste la collection permanente de la marque lanc&eacute;e en octobre 2023. Malgr&eacute; sa jeune histoire, Beaubleu a d&eacute;j&agrave; commercialis&eacute; 3 collections en s&eacute;ries limit&eacute;es :</p>
<p><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/b01">Beaubleu B01</a><br><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/union">Beaubleu Union</a><br><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/vitruve_date">Beaubleu Vitruve Date</a> et <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/vitruve_gmt">Beaubleu Vitruve GMT</a></p>
<h2>Quel est le prix d'une montre Beaubleu ?</h2>
<p>Le prix des montres Beaubleu &eacute;voluent et diff&egrave;rent selon les mod&egrave;les. La plupart co&ucirc;tent <strong>entre 800 &euro; et 1,600 &euro;</strong> selon les r&eacute;f&eacute;rences. A titre d'exemple, une <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/ecce/vesperal">Beaubleu Ecce Vesperal</a> est propos&eacute;e &agrave; 890 &euro; sur le bracelet cuir et la nouvelle collection <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/seconde_francaise">Beaubleu Seconde Fran&ccedil;aise</a> est vendue &agrave; partir de 1,490 &euro; sur bracelet cuir &eacute;galement. <a href="bit.ly/4abJPrn" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Tous les prix Beaubleu sur le site de la marque</a>.</p>
<p>La marque Beaubleu est ind&eacute;pendante et vend plusieurs milliers de montres par an, tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir le mod&egrave;le Beaubleu qui vous correspond le mieux, les <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/beaubleu/seconde_francaise/20.24_gris_perle/review/66607be37f15bc103d620fe3">avis clients Dialicious sur Beaubleu</a> sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer les diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients de la marque.</p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Consultez le<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_francaises"><span class="s2"> Classement des meilleures marques de montres fran&ccedil;aises</span></a> dont Beaubleu fait partie.</span></p>
<p>(Mise &agrave; jour Novembre 2024)</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p dir="ltr">Created in 2017 by designer Nicolas Ducoudert, Beaubleu brings a new dimension to watchmaking by creating watches that are aesthetic, astonishing and deeply symbolic. The round hands, signature of the House, reflect singularity and sophisticated simplicity. Each model features a deliciously contemporary design, where every detail, every surface, interacts with light.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Breaking the codes of traditional watchmaking by providing a new vision of time, Beaubleu watches go off the beaten track by featuring round, hollowed-out hands, inspired by the work of Galileo in his understanding of the solar system. These hands poetically display the hours, which do not point to an index or a graduation, but which indicate a position, an instant from the center of the dial.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">What are the main models of the Beaubleu brand?</h2>
<p dir="ltr">Beaubleu has just announced on June 5, 2024, the launch of a new limited series collection called<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/seconde_francaise"> Beaubleu Seconde Francaise</a>. A beautiful aesthetic and poetic innovation as the brand has the secret, with a flying seconds hand and a French caliber from France &Eacute;bauches. The Beaubleu Seconde Fran&ccedil;aise is one of the nominees for the 2024 GPHG (Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Gen&egrave;ve).&nbsp;</p>
<p dir="ltr">The collection<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/ecce"> Beaubleu Ecce</a> remains the permanent collection of the brand launched in October 2023. Despite its young history, Beaubleu has already marketed 3 collections in limited series:</p>
<p dir="ltr"><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/b01">Beaubleu B01<br></a><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/union">Beaubleu Union<br></a><a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/vitruve_date">Beaubleu Vitruvius Date</a> And<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/vitruve_gmt"> Beaubleu Vitruve GMT</a></p>
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a Beaubleu watch cost?</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The prices of Beaubleu watches change and differ depending on the model. <strong>Most cost between &euro; 800 and &euro; 1,600 according to the references</strong>. As an example, a<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/ecce/vesperal"> Beaubleu Ecce Vesperal</a> is offered at &euro; 890 on the leather strap and the new collection<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/seconde_francaise"> Beaubleu Seconde Francaise</a> is sold from &euro; 1,490 on a leather strap as well. All Beaubleu prices on the brand's website.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The Beaubleu brand is independent and sells several thousand watches per year, all models combined. To choose the Beaubleu model that best suits you, <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/beaubleu/seconde_francaise/20.24_gris_perle/review/66607be37f15bc103d620fe3">Dialicious owners' reviews on Beaubleu</a> are a valuable resource for evaluating the different models through the real experience of the brand's customers.</p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Check out the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands"><span class="s2"> Ranking of the best French watch brands</span></a>, including Beaubleu.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated November 2024)</p>

Lip T18 Owner Review : Rare, refined and radiant

Rare and elegant

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Lip T18 Owner Review : Rare, refined and radiant

Rare and elegant

Pros & Cons for this watch

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