The desire to treat myself to an elegant mechanical watch is at the origin of this acquisition. I wanted it to be rectangular, with European mechanics, both modern and retro. My patience was rewarded when LIP presented this limited series of 180 pieces. Today, it is the only one in my collection in this style, I wear it on rare occasions, mostly dinners and it is always with undisguised pleasure that I put it on my wrist.
Mechanical, I have to wind it daily and the crown is very thin, which does not make winding easy. This is the only black point noted. It is not solid gold, it is a gold plating and not a pvd or dlc treatment.

Rare and elegant

For almost 15 years, I had been eyeing the Pilot.. previously in 43mm and only in black (steel or ceramic case), it seemed even more imposing than it was.
April 2021, IWC released the 41mm version in different shades, sunray blue and green, each with the date and day on a white background, on leather or 5-link steel bracelet with EasX-CHANGE system allowing you to change the bracelet in one go and a very practical micro adjustment to the buckle (even if it is less accomplished than that of Rolex), this pilot is now water-resistant to 100m compared to 60m previously.
Decided to put them on the wrist at the AD, I find them successful due to their typical IWC finish, a new manufacture movement equips them (after years where it was equipped with the excellent ETA 7750), this does not bring much in terms of power reserve and precision (+5.75 seconds / day).
May 2022 I discovered in the press the presentation of a limited series of 500 pieces worldwide (under reference IW388107), this one celebrating the Chinese New Year with a tiger-shaped oscillating weight, the year 2022 engraved and the serial number on 500, a Burgundy leather strap (tending towards dark Bordeaux) and above all a red sunray dial, which depending on the inclination of the watch oscillates between wine lees, black, Bordeaux... I go to Paris and passing in front of the IWC window rue de la Paix, it is there alone proud, well highlighted, I go in and ask to pass it. Wow, hypnotic this dial, the date and day are well integrated with the same color as the dial. However, I prefer to focus on a Navitimer 41 (which I am currently getting for almost €2,000 less than the IWC) .. but after 3 months, I am tired of this cream dial with gold hands, tone on tone it is not very readable .. regrets finally because the Burgundy was sold quickly after my visit and no point looking elsewhere .. they were all sold in the first 6 months of 2022 .. I embark on a quest for months to search the net for a possibility of acquiring one but they are rare on the web and they are on the other side of the world ... then finally .. a magnificent piece is finally available a few weeks ago. Time to talk with its owner who acquired it in May 2022 ... a few days apart from my own test in Paris .. his acquired in the Netherlands and worn less than 5 times. We agree on the acquisition costs, a few days of waiting... the IWC Pilot barely received, I go to the IWC boutique to equip it with the magnificent 5-link bracelet and there it is, finally! a bomb, the softness of the pushers (more pleasant than on a speedmaster), it is very readable and for once it will not be easy for me to find one on someone's wrist.

Hypnotic

The French watch brand LIP is an emblematic figure of the watch industry, recognized for his innovation, his avant-garde design and his history rich in twists and turns. Founded in 1867 in Besan&ccedil;on, LIP has gone through periods of glory, economic challenges and social struggles, while leaving an indelible mark in the history of French watchmaking.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Beginnings: Foundation and Expansion (1867-1930)</h2>
The history of LIP begins in 1867 when Emmanuel Lipmann founded a small watchmaking workshop in Besan&ccedil;on, the French capital of watchmaking. Initially named "Comptoir Lipmann", the workshop specializes in the manufacture of high quality pocket watches. In 1893, the company became the "Soci&eacute;t&eacute; Anonyme d'Horlogerie Lipmann Fr&egrave;res" and adopted the brand LIP, acronym of the founder's initials.
At the beginning of the 20th century, LIP stood out for its technical and aesthetic innovations. In 1904, the brand introduced the "Lip" pocket chronometer, which met with notable success. LIP is quickly positioning itself as a major player in French watchmaking, combining precision and elegance in its creations.
<h2 dir="ltr">The Age of Innovation: The 1930s-1950s</h2>
Under the direction of Fred Lip, son of Ernest Lipmann, LIP enters a period of intense innovation. In 1933, the brand launched the model <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/t18">Lip T18</a>, a rectangular wristwatch equipped with a high-precision movement. This model became emblematic and was offered in 1948 to Winston Churchill in recognition of his role during the Second World War.
In the 1950s, LIP continued to innovate by introducing<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/electronic"> Lip Electronic</a> in 1952, the first French electronic watch. This model uses a quartz crystal to keep time, constituting a significant advancement in watchmaking technology. Lip offered at this time the first models<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/himalaya"> Lip Himalaya</a> which still remain in the catalog today.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1960s: Expansion and Avant-Garde Design</h2>
The 1960s marked a period of expansion for LIP like the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/nautic-ski"> Lip Nautic-Ski</a> presented during the Grenoble Olympic Games in 1968. It was also the beginning of collaborations with renowned designers to create watches with innovative designs. In 1967, the brand called on Roger Tallon, famous industrial designer, to design the collection<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/lip/mach_2000"> Lip Mach 2000</a>. These watches are distinguished by their futuristic aesthetic and their bold shapes, breaking with traditional watchmaking codes.
At the same time, LIP develops watches intended for specific uses, notably for pilots and divers, thus strengthening its reputation as a manufacturer of technical and reliable watches.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1970s: Crisis and Social Struggles</h2>
Despite its successes, LIP faced financial difficulties at the end of the 1960s, exacerbated by international competition and changes in the watch market. In 1973, the company was placed in liquidation, triggering a series of strikes and factory occupations by workers. This social movement, known as "LIP Conflict", became emblematic of workers' struggles in France and attracted national media attention.
The employees, led by the trade unionist Charles Piaget, took control of production and continued to manufacture and sell watches under the slogan "It's possible: we make, we sell, we get paid!". This experiment in self-management aroused broad popular support and symbolized workers' resistance to factory closures.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 1980s-1990s: Relaunch Attempts and Changes in Ownership</h2>
After the liquidation of LIP in 1977, several attempts at revival were undertaken. In 1984, the brand was bought by the "Kipl&eacute;" company, but this initiative failed, leading to another liquidation in 1986. In 1990, the businessman Jean-Claude Sensemat acquired the brand and successfully relaunched production, relying on modern marketing methods and reissuing iconic models. Under his leadership, LIP experienced a renaissance and achieved significant sales.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 2000s: Renewal and Modernization</h2>
In 2002, Jean-Claude Sensemat signed a worldwide licensing contract with Jean-Luc Bernerd, who created the Manufacture G&eacute;n&eacute;rale Horlog&egrave;re in Lectoure, in the Gers region, to produce LIP watches. This collaboration makes it possible to modernize the collections while respecting the brand's heritage. LIP continues to offer reissues of historic models, while introducing new creations adapted to contemporary tastes.
<h2 dir="ltr">The 2010s: Back to Basics and Sustainable Development</h2>
In 2015, the brand was bought by the "Soci&eacute;t&eacute; des Montres Bisontines" (SMB), based in Ch&acirc;tillon-le-Duc, near Besan&ccedil;on, France. This return to geographical sources marks a new stage in the history of LIP, which strengthens its local roots and its commitment to sustainable development. Production is relocated to France, and the brand strives to promote French watchmaking know-how. LIP continues to offer its emblematic collections which have marked its history, seeking to meet the expectations of modern consumers.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the most popular French watch brands</a>, including LIP.
(Updated November 2024)

In the history of LIP, the T18 has left its mark in a significant way. Indeed, this model from the 30s/40s, already appreciated for the quality of its caliber, was recognized when a solid gold copy was offered to Winston Churchill in 1948, becoming the "Churchill". It has been reissued since 1988, and is still in the LIP catalog, but with a Quartz (???!!) Ronda (?????????!!!!) movement. If you are looking for one, prefer an original like this one. Perhaps less precise, but more in the spirit of LIP.
(To be completely objective and precise, LIP also reissued the T18 with a gold-plated case and a movement in every way identical to that of the 30s, limited to 180 copies, for around €2,500 (all sold))
I bought mine at least 30 years ago. This is a watch that has always attracted me: as legitimate as a Cartier Tank, but less expensive (less well finished too, but you can't have everything at this price!).
Having lain dormant for about twenty years, it is a little worn, but it will be entitled to a complete overhaul by my watchmaker very soon. It will thus start up again more beautifully for several decades on my wrist.

An icon in its own right

LIP T18 watch, part of the first generation. This model was launched by LIP in the 1930s. 
We find several elements on the dial, first of all the old LIP logo, composed only of the 3 letters.
Also a small second at 6 o'clock and the blued hands. I particularly like the patina caused by the life of the watch.
Small watch that is worn rather with a dressy clothing style (suit shirt).
This small caliber offers in particular great lightness.

LIP T18 Vintage

La marque SYE [Start Your Engine] a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en 2020 par Arnaud Pezeron &agrave; c&ocirc;t&eacute; de Paris en France. La marque inaugure le Sport Tailoring au poignet. Elle propose des montres sport-chic de caract&egrave;re, fiables, ludiques et abordables inspir&eacute;es de l'univers de la m&eacute;canique auto-moto. La gamme comprend deux mod&egrave;les distincts, la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_automatic_24">SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 </a>et la <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/sye/mot1on_chronograph">SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
Cette marque embarque une innovation sur le changement du bracelet disponible en acier ou en cuir. La montre n'offre aucun espace entre le bracelet et la boite d&ucirc; &agrave; l&rsquo;absence de cornes, ce qui am&eacute;liore son confort et sa portabilit&eacute;.
<h2 class="p1">Combien co&ucirc;te une montre&nbsp;SYE&nbsp;?</h2>
La gamme SYE comporte deux mod&egrave;les disponibles sur le site de la marque : La SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 750&euro;. La SYE MOT1ON Chronograph est propos&eacute;e &agrave; partir de 599 &euro;.
SYE est ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines montres par an tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une SYE qui vous correspond le mieux, les avis clients Dialicious sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.
Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_francaises">Classement des meilleures marques de montres fran&ccedil;aises</a> dont SYE fait partie.
(Mise &agrave; jour Novembre 2023)

The brand SYE [Start Your Engine] was created in 2020 by Arnaud Pezeron near Paris in France. The brand is introducing Sport Tailoring on the wrist. It offers sporty-chic watches with character, reliability, fun and affordability inspired by the world of car and motorcycle mechanics. The range includes two distinct models, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_automatic_24"> SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24</a> and the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/sye/mot1on_chronograph"> SYE MOT1ON Chronograph</a>.
This brand has an innovation in changing the bracelet available in steel or leather. The watch offers no space between the bracelet and the case due to the absence of lugs, which improves its comfort and portability.
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does a SYE watch cost?</h2>
The SYE range includes two models available on the brand's website: The SYE MOT1ON Automatic 24 is offered from &euro; 750. The SYE MOT1ON Chronograph is offered from &euro; 599.
SYE is independent and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an SYE that best suits you, the Dialicious owners' reviews are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real customer experience.
Check out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_french_watch_brands">Ranking of the best French watch brands</a>, including SYE.
(Updated November 2023)

Lip T18 Owner Review : Rare, refined and radiant

Rare and elegant

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