Lip - History, Models and Owners' Reviews

The French watch brand LIP is an emblematic figure of the watch industry, recognized for his innovation, his avant-garde design and his history rich in twists and turns. Founded in 1867 in Besançon, LIP has gone through periods of glory, economic challenges and social struggles, while leaving an indelible mark in the history of French watchmaking.

The Beginnings: Foundation and Expansion (1867-1930)

The history of LIP begins in 1867 when Emmanuel Lipmann founded a small watchmaking workshop in Besançon, the French capital of watchmaking. Initially named "Comptoir Lipmann", the workshop specializes in the manufacture of high quality pocket watches. In 1893, the company became the "Société Anonyme d'Horlogerie Lipmann Frères" and adopted the brand LIP, acronym of the founder's initials.

At the beginning of the 20th century, LIP stood out for its technical and aesthetic innovations. In 1904, the brand introduced the "Lip" pocket chronometer, which met with notable success. LIP is quickly positioning itself as a major player in French watchmaking, combining precision and elegance in its creations.

The Age of Innovation: The 1930s-1950s

Under the direction of Fred Lip, son of Ernest Lipmann, LIP enters a period of intense innovation. In 1933, the brand launched the model Lip T18, a rectangular wristwatch equipped with a high-precision movement. This model became emblematic and was offered in 1948 to Winston Churchill in recognition of his role during the Second World War.

In the 1950s, LIP continued to innovate by introducing Lip Electronic in 1952, the first French electronic watch. This model uses a quartz crystal to keep time, constituting a significant advancement in watchmaking technology. Lip offered at this time the first models Lip Himalaya which still remain in the catalog today.

The 1960s: Expansion and Avant-Garde Design

The 1960s marked a period of expansion for LIP like the Lip Nautic-Ski presented during the Grenoble Olympic Games in 1968. It was also the beginning of collaborations with renowned designers to create watches with innovative designs. In 1967, the brand called on Roger Tallon, famous industrial designer, to design the collection Lip Mach 2000. These watches are distinguished by their futuristic aesthetic and their bold shapes, breaking with traditional watchmaking codes.

At the same time, LIP develops watches intended for specific uses, notably for pilots and divers, thus strengthening its reputation as a manufacturer of technical and reliable watches.

The 1970s: Crisis and Social Struggles

Despite its successes, LIP faced financial difficulties at the end of the 1960s, exacerbated by international competition and changes in the watch market. In 1973, the company was placed in liquidation, triggering a series of strikes and factory occupations by workers. This social movement, known as "LIP Conflict", became emblematic of workers' struggles in France and attracted national media attention.

The employees, led by the trade unionist Charles Piaget, took control of production and continued to manufacture and sell watches under the slogan "It's possible: we make, we sell, we get paid!". This experiment in self-management aroused broad popular support and symbolized workers' resistance to factory closures.

The 1980s-1990s: Relaunch Attempts and Changes in Ownership

After the liquidation of LIP in 1977, several attempts at revival were undertaken. In 1984, the brand was bought by the "Kiplé" company, but this initiative failed, leading to another liquidation in 1986. In 1990, the businessman Jean-Claude Sensemat acquired the brand and successfully relaunched production, relying on modern marketing methods and reissuing iconic models. Under his leadership, LIP experienced a renaissance and achieved significant sales.

The 2000s: Renewal and Modernization

In 2002, Jean-Claude Sensemat signed a worldwide licensing contract with Jean-Luc Bernerd, who created the Manufacture Générale Horlogère in Lectoure, in the Gers region, to produce LIP watches. This collaboration makes it possible to modernize the collections while respecting the brand's heritage. LIP continues to offer reissues of historic models, while introducing new creations adapted to contemporary tastes.

The 2010s: Back to Basics and Sustainable Development

In 2015, the brand was bought by the "Société des Montres Bisontines" (SMB), based in Châtillon-le-Duc, near Besançon, France. This return to geographical sources marks a new stage in the history of LIP, which strengthens its local roots and its commitment to sustainable development. Production is relocated to France, and the brand strives to promote French watchmaking know-how. LIP continues to offer its emblematic collections which have marked its history, seeking to meet the expectations of modern consumers.

Check out the Ranking of the most popular French watch brands, including LIP.

(Updated November 2024)