Accustomed to round sports watches with black backgrounds, this Cartier breaks my usual codes: square shape, white background, Roman numerals... it is a watch of incredible elegance, moreover it is unclassifiable. Cartier is a real watch manufacturer and this idea takes on its full meaning when you put it on your wrist.

This watch can mean different things to different people, but to me it embodies an immense history enclosed in a magnificently proportioned case. It is indeed a watch originally created for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who made the first successful flight in an airplane in 1906. At the pilot's request, his friend Louis Cartier is said to have presented him in 1904 with a watch designed to be worn on the wrist, allowing him to time his flights without having to let go of the controls to manipulate a pocket watch. I find it fascinating that the alliance between these two pioneers, Louis Cartier and Alberto Santos-Dumont, not only revolutionized the way watches are worn today, but also pioneered the concept of the tool watch. The choice of gold for a tool watch may seem paradoxical, but what other choice could there be to accompany an aristocrat, a member of the Parisian elite of the early 20th century, on his aerial adventures? Probably my favorite detail on this watch. But the story behind this watch is also emotional to me. After breaking many records and contributing significantly to the developments of aviation, Alberto Santos-Dumont spent decades campaigning tirelessly against the use of airplanes as weapons of war, particularly upset by their role in World War I. He considered the airplane to be partly his invention and its use in the world wars tormented him until the end of his life. His famous statement, “I never thought that my creation could allow brothers to kill brothers”. Certainly a man I find remarkable, whose destiny seems to me very linked to that of Oppenheimer and who in my humble opinion should be highlighted by Cartier to promote their eponymous watch. As for the design, this 1575 pre-CPCP faithfully reflects the original design, right down to the screws on the bezel, designed to recall the structure of the Eiffel Tower. This case embodies for me the height of the artistic effervescence of the Belle Époque and it is the first incarnation of the so emblematic design of Cartier that I particularly admire. Moreover, although the current design of the Santos and Santos-Dumont is different, they symbolize, like the original SD, the evolution of lifestyles, in particular the possibility of wearing them with a metal bracelet. This watch is exceptionally long-lasting. The movement of this 1575 is just as historic since it is the F. Piguet caliber 21, which held the record for the thinnest manual movement for 21 years. Its longevity is just as remarkable as the design of the Santos-Dumont since it was produced from 1925 until the 2000s. I am a fan of two or three hands, and an ultra-thin movement represents for me one of the most beautiful complications a watch can have. While the design may be striking, it is extremely discreet in its size and exceptional thinness. It fits my wrist perfectly, becoming one with me. I also appreciate the fact that it leaves enough space for the bracelet, showing off a beautiful leather strap. Everything I love... While I am not an aviation enthusiast, this watch has as much historical significance to me as a Speedmaster. It is a bastion of history, utility and design with a presence that cannot be ignored.

What can I say about this model, a total success. The Santos Dumont is an iconic watch, with all the Cartier codes, the secret signature, the sword hands, the railway minute track… Two hands, extra flat, a sublime leather strap, it is the elegant watch to have in a collection. In my opinion, in the Santos range, it is the most refined, the one that stands out among the very pretty dress watches.

Cartier Santos-Dumont large model. Quartz movement and it suits it well since I don't wear it every day. The dial is beautiful, the level of finish is also very good and the bracelet is very high quality with a pin buckle. It goes just as well with a suit as with more casual outfits, even a t-shirt or polo shirt. It is discreet but attracts a lot of compliments. It is an ideal watch to celebrate a life event as are all Cartier watches!