Castagna model from the permanent collection, this mecaquartz chrono (Seiko VK64) is an absolute bomb and a beautiful tribute to the 1463 by Patek Philippe. Delivered in a great packaging with two very well-made vegetable leather straps. An unrivaled level of finish and rendering for less than €1000.

A mechaquartz for impeccable

Cartier Santos-Dumont large model. Quartz movement and it suits it well since I don't wear it every day. The dial is beautiful, the level of finish is also very good and the bracelet is very high quality with a pin buckle. It goes just as well with a suit as with more casual outfits, even a t-shirt or polo shirt. It is discreet but attracts a lot of compliments. It is an ideal watch to celebrate a life event as are all Cartier watches!

The all-terrain elegance of Cartier

Sea-Gull 1963. While browsing YouTube videos, I came across this model praised by several "Watch enthusiasts". Beyond the small difficulties of acquisition, necessarily online, the model presents an excellent level of finish for this price. The movement is correct and the model arouses curiosity.

Sea-Gull 1963, original small Chinese chronometer

HKED is a distributor based in Hong Kong. On the site, it is possible to buy "1963" models with increased quality control and TOP finishing. I gave this watch to my son for his 14th birthday. This HKED has a 40mm 1963 case, with an ST 1901 movement, derived from the Swiss Venus 175 mechanical chronograph movement, visible, thanks to the glass, which the case back is provided with. It has a "Swan Neck" setting. The emerald green sunray dial, with the two cream sub-counters is beautiful. The domed glass is made of plexiglass and gives a vintage look to this model. A good chronograph at a very low budget to start a collection!

HKED-Seagull 1963

Watching Ivan on Xavier’s couch finally convinced me to buy the Sea-Gull International Edition 1963. Beyond Ivan’s comments, it was the iconic design of this watch that really appealed to me, including its red star, blued hands, and bright red chronograph. Its excellent value for money and its status as a modern reissue of a legendary chronograph originally designed for the Chinese Air Force also played a key role in my decision.

Classic and elegant design: The champagne dial, with its subdials for the minute track and small seconds, evokes the military style of the 1960s. The blue hands and gold-tone indexes create a striking contrast, while the glass crystal adds a touch of luxury while preserving the watch’s vintage charm. The round 316L stainless steel case, with a diameter of 37.5 mm and a thickness of approximately 15.1 mm, offers a robust yet refined silhouette.

ST1901 Manual Movement: Equipped with a ST1901 manual mechanical movement with 22 jewels, this watch is renowned for its reliability and precision. Its movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 A/h and offers an adequate power reserve for everyday use.

Comfort and dimensions: With a net weight of only 60 g and a canvas strap with a length of approximately 28 cm and a width of 18 mm, this watch is comfortable to wear all day long. Personally, I am not a fan of the Nato strap supplied with the watch, so I opted for a green leather strap, whose stitching recalls the color of the dial. This allows me to admire the movement more easily while offering optimal comfort for everyday use.

Modern finishes: This edition is distinguished by the use of quality materials, such as resistant glass. The transparent case back allows you to observe the movement in action, a real asset for watch enthusiasts.

Military heritage and versatility: Elegant and functional, this watch can be worn in both formal and casual settings. Its water resistance of 3 bar (30 meters) makes it practical for everyday use.

Conclusion: My Sea-Gull 1963 International Edition fuses military heritage with a touch of modernity. For fans of vintage mechanical chronographs, this is an exceptional choice. Its fascinating history and technical performance make it both collectible and practical, while offering excellent value for money.

Sea-Gull 1963: An Iconic Chinese Chronograph

I was looking for a mechanical chronograph, and after some research and videos, I fell in love with the Seagull 1963. This iconic watch, powered by the ST19 movement inspired by the famous Swiss caliber Venus 175, offers exceptional value for money. The Seagull 1963 is a must-have model for enthusiasts and collectors, combining fascinating history, vintage design and mechanical engineering. In 1961, the Chinese government gave the Tianjin Watch Factory a prestigious mission: to design a chronograph to equip the Chinese air force, the PLA Air Force. After two years of development, in 1963, the legendary ST19 chronograph was born. This movement, based on the Venus 175 acquired by China after its production ceased in Switzerland, demonstrates a perfect fusion of Swiss watchmaking know-how and Chinese innovation. The Seagull 1963 seduces with its retro aesthetic: a refined dial, delicately colored hands and remarkable mechanical precision, thanks to its manual winding. More than a watch, it is a true piece of watchmaking history, a tribute to an era when watchmaking was at the crossroads between tradition and innovation.

My SEA-GULL 1963 mechanical chronograph watch

Having been for a long time only attracted by mechanical watches without complications, 3 hands, no date; by dint of listening to the various influencers, I asked myself "and why not a chronograph" with an emblematic & very connoted finish, even caricatured, the PANDA. This type of watch not having a priority in my collection, I turned to an economical choice, the reissue of the Chinese chronograph from 1963, in a finish under contrasting dials, panda. The watch is nice, blued hands, red chrono second hand, we lose the great elegance, but the compromise is nice. A relatively endearing watch, mounted on a "racing green" strap to bring it back to the automotive world. I wear it little, the 30mn compax counter ultimately finds few concrete daily applications. It does have style, however, it could be replaced by an equivalent LONGINES or UNIVERSAL Genève, panda .... to be seen

Panda

Friends with a passion for watches piqued my curiosity and it was through a YouTube video that I discovered the Sea-gull 1963. Since the model was not patented, this watch is produced by many Chinese manufacturers. So I bought the model from Red Star on a famous Chinese sales platform for €133 including tax. At that price, I didn't expect much, but this watch exceeds my expectations. 

Its finishes are certainly simple, but well done: no brushing on the case but a flawless polish, a satin champagne dial, sub-dials painted directly on the dial in a very clean way, magnificent gold indexes, blue and red hands that fit well into the case. 

As for the movement, my ST1901 gives me a little over 48 hours of power reserve, and a drift of +10s/day (test watch placed flat for 24 hours). The chrono is great for monitoring the cooking of pasta.

Finally, I find that a brown leather strap with a bund suits it better than the usual Natos.

A good introduction to the world of watchmaking

I had been hesitating for several months, probably even years. The ultra vintage look and the historical (mythical? ...!) character had seduced me. As well as the general compactness for a chronograph. Finally, a promotional opportunity convinced me (yes, it's almost petty!). 
OK, the leather strap is much too long (therefore quickly changed), the whole thing does not exude foolproof robustness, and the diameter sold at 38mm actually measures 37.5 in diameter (a 38.5 would have been perfect), but the synthesis of this Chinese watch is still surprising. I also measured a lug to lug of 47.2, a thickness of 13.3 and a weight of 61 grams with strap. 
It is a pleasure to wear it, and the movement visible on the glass case back is particularly pleasant to look at! I opted for the sapphire crystal version and swan neck regulator supposed to provide better precision, we will see in the long run. Skeptical before purchase on the movement, I must admit a surprisingly satisfactory adjustment and regularity (the personal threshold of tolerance being naturally lowered, the opposite of the level of indulgence!). 
In short and in fine, the watch figures worthily in my collection, and I intend to alternate fairly without sulking, as for the others!

SEAGULL 1963 Chronograph

(Sea-gull 1963 (reissue); 40mm; sapphire crystal and open back). This mechanical chronograph is an icon and is very successful thanks in particular to its affordable price (paid €177 in 2021). The original model was developed in the early 1960s by the Tianjin manufacturer at the request of the Chinese government in order to equip its air force pilots. The on-board ST1901 movement is inspired by the Venus 175 which equipped Breitlings in particular. My model is a little different from the historical model because I chose it in 40mm with a domed sapphire crystal and an open back. On the other hand, the Kanji writing at 6 o'clock is on 2 lines (unlike the majority of recent models). This is one of the many reissues (cloning? Counterfeit?) from the land of the rising sun but I cannot certify that it really comes from the Sea-gull manufacture...
With its champagne dial on which its applied gold indexes, its blue hands and its red second hand are placed, this watch has a deliciously vintage look. The show continues on the back of the wide open case with this magnificent ST1901 movement with its column wheel and blue screws... A treat!. Despite the plastic ring which is unfortunately quite visible around the movement and the minute hand of the chrono which wanders a little when it is engaged and I move my wrist too much (the defect of my model), I am rather seduced by the general aesthetics of this timepiece. If you choose this chrono, you must take into account the sometimes random quality and the risk of receiving a defective copy without any guarantee of real after-sales service (many testimonials on the net). Likewise, in the event of a mechanical problem, it will be difficult to find a watchmaker who will agree to plunge his hands into the engine...

The essential chronograph to start your collection

If the market is flooded with bronze models, I find that if only one had to use this material it should be this seagull which seems to come from ancient times.
The patina accentuates its vintage aesthetic, the association of colors is perfect with its champagne dial.
The only flaw is the nato with which it is delivered. It's simple, nothing goes on it. The pin is too small as are the loops. Changing the latter is simple since its width is 18mm.

Bronze suits him perfectly

<p>La marque <strong>Ollech &amp; Wajs</strong> a &eacute;t&eacute; cr&eacute;&eacute;e en <strong>1956</strong> par Joseph Ollech et Albert Wajs &agrave; Zurich en Suisse. Albert &eacute;tait charg&eacute; de la conception, de l&rsquo;ing&eacute;nierie et de la fabrication des montres, tandis que Joseph s&rsquo;occupait du marketing et de la vente au d&eacute;tail. Avant de cr&eacute;er leur propre montres sous la marque Ollech &amp; Wajs, ils ont commenc&eacute; leur activit&eacute; en 1954 en fabriquant des bracelets en acier pour d&rsquo;autres marques.</p>
<p>La marque est connue pour avoir distribu&eacute; des montres &agrave; des unit&eacute;s de l&rsquo;arm&eacute;e am&eacute;ricaine pendant la guerre du Vietnam et pour avoir gagn&eacute; sa renomm&eacute;e aupr&egrave;s des plongeurs et pilotes du monde entier.</p>
<p>Apr&egrave;s 12 ans de n&eacute;gociation et apr&egrave;s avoir &eacute;t&eacute; son distributeur pour le march&eacute; fran&ccedil;ais, en 2017, Charles Le Menestrel, un passionn&eacute; d&rsquo;horlogerie, rach&egrave;te la marque. La gamme actuelle comprend des mod&egrave;les comme la Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 et la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/p-104">Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104</a>, la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/c-1000">Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000</a>, la <a title="Page Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph" href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/ocean_graph">Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph</a> et la Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron.</p>
<h2>Combien co&ucirc;te une montre Ollech &amp; Wajs ?</h2>
<p>Les prix des montres Ollech &amp; Wajs &eacute;voluent et diff&egrave;rent selon les mod&egrave;les. <strong>La plupart co&ucirc;tent entre CHF 1,500 et CHF 2,000 selon les mod&egrave;les et les finitions</strong>. Comptez <strong>CHF 1,456</strong> pour une Ollech &amp; Wajs 350CI et pr&egrave;s de <strong>CHF 2,300</strong> pour une Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron Chronographe. Le march&eacute; de l'occasion est &eacute;galement une opportunit&eacute; &agrave; regarder pour acheter une Ollech &amp; Wajs moins ch&egrave;re. Les mod&egrave;les Vintage notamment les Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron et&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/ollech_&amp;_wajs/astrochron">Ollech &amp; Wajs Astrochron</a>, sont tr&egrave;s pris&eacute;es des collectionneurs et ils convient de bien se renseigner sur le vendeur avant de franchir le pas de l'acquisition d'une vintage.</p>
<p><strong>Ollech &amp; Wajs</strong> est une marque de montres ind&eacute;pendante et produit plusieurs centaines de montres par an, tous mod&egrave;les confondus. Pour choisir une Ollech &amp; Wajs qui vous correspond le mieux,&nbsp;<strong>les avis clients Dialicious</strong> sont une pr&eacute;cieuse ressource pour &eacute;valuer chacun des diff&eacute;rents mod&egrave;les &agrave; travers l'exp&eacute;rience r&eacute;elle des clients.</p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Consultez le <a href="https://www.dialicious.com/top/les_meilleures_marques_de_montres_suisses"><span class="s2">Classement des meilleures marques de montres suisses</span></a> dont Ollech &amp; Wajs fait partie.</span></p>
<p class="p1">(Mise &agrave; jour Octobre 2024)</p>

<p dir="ltr">The brand <strong>Ollech &amp; Wajs</strong> was created in <strong>1956</strong> by Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs in Zurich, Switzerland. Albert was responsible for the design, engineering and manufacturing of the watches, while Joseph handled marketing and retail sales. Before creating their own watches under the brand Ollech &amp; Wajs, they started their business in 1954 making steel bracelets for other brands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The brand is known for distributing watches to units of the American army during the Vietnam War and for having earned its reputation among divers and pilots around the world.</p>
<p dir="ltr">After 12 years of negotiations and after having been its distributor for the French market, in 2017, Charles Le Menestrel, a watchmaking enthusiast, bought the brand. The current range includes models like the Ollech &amp; Wajs P-101 and the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/p-104">Ollech &amp; Wajs P-104</a>, the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/c-1000">Ollech &amp; Wajs C-1000</a>, the<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/ocean_graph"> Ollech &amp; Wajs Ocean Graph</a> and the Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">How much does an Ollech &amp; Wajs watch cost?</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The prices of Ollech &amp; Wajs watches change and differ depending on the model. <strong>Most cost between CHF 1,500 and CHF 2,000 depending on the models and finishes</strong>. Expect to pay <strong>CHF </strong><strong>1,456</strong> for an Ollech &amp; Wajs 350CI and close to <strong>CHF </strong><strong>2,300</strong> for an Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron Chronograph. The second-hand market is also an opportunity to look at to buy a cheaper Ollech &amp; Wajs. Vintage models including the Ollech &amp; Wajs Navichron and&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/ollech_&amp;_wajs/astrochron">Ollech &amp; Wajs Astrochron</a>, are very popular with collectors and they should find out about the seller before taking the step of purchasing a vintage one.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Ollech &amp; Wajs is an independent watch brand and produces several hundred watches per year, all models combined. To choose an Ollech &amp; Wajs that best suits you, <strong>Dialicious owners' reviews</strong> are a valuable resource for evaluating each of the different models through real owner experience.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Consult the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dialicious.com/en/top/the_best_swiss_watch_brands">Ranking of the best Swiss watch brands</a> of which Ollech &amp; Wajs is part.</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated October 2024)</p>

<p dir="ltr">The <strong>Sea-Gull 1963</strong> is an iconic watch that embodies Chinese watchmaking history and know-how. Initially designed for the Chinese Air Force, over the decades it has become a symbol of military watchmaking and a prized piece among collectors around the world, particularly for its historic design and affordable price.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Origins and Historical Context</h2>
<p dir="ltr">In the 1950s, <strong>China sought to develop its watch industry</strong> to reduce its dependence on foreign imports. In 1955, the Chinese government ordered four watch specialists to produce a national watch for the People's Liberation Army. This initiative led to the creation of the first Chinese watch, known as the WuXing, produced by the Tianjin Watch Factory, which later became Sea-Gull.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In 1961, the Chinese Air Force issued a specific order for a chronograph to equip its pilots. After several prototypes and rigorous testing, official production began in 1963, giving birth to the watch today known as the Sea-Gull 1963.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Technical Characteristics and Design</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The Sea-Gull 1963 stands out for its classic design and technical specifications:</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Housing:</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Initially in stainless steel, with a diameter of 38 mm, adapted to the standards of the time.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Dial:</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Champagne color, decorated with gold indexes and hands, with a red star at 12 o'clock, symbolizing the People's Liberation Army.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Complications :</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Bicompax chronograph with a small seconds at 9 o'clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Movement :</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Caliber ST19, a mechanical movement with manual winding, <strong>derived from the Swiss caliber Venus 175</strong>. Indeed, China acquired the rights and production machines for the Venus 175 movement, allowing local production and adaptation to military needs.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Glass :</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Domed acrylic, offering a vintage aesthetic.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bracelet :</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Olive-colored NATO, reinforcing the military aspect of the watch.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Evolution and Reissues</h2>
<p dir="ltr">After its initial production for the army, the Sea-Gull 1963 went through several reissues intended for the general public:</p>
<p dir="ltr">2000s : Faced with collectors' enthusiasm for vintage military watches, Sea-Gull reissued the 1963, retaining its original design while improving certain technical aspects.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Modern Variants : Versions with 40mm and 42mm cases have been introduced to suit contemporary preferences. In addition, options with sapphire crystal and transparent back were offered, allowing you to admire the ST19 movement in action.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Limited Editions : Some reissues were produced in limited quantities, with engraved serial numbers, increasing their appeal to collectors.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Cultural Impact and International Recognition</h2>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>The 1963 Sea-Gull became an icon of Chinese watchmaking</strong>, symbolizing the industrial independence and technical know-how of the country. Its unique history and connection with the military make it a sought-after piece by military watch enthusiasts.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Internationally, the 1963 Sea-Gull has gained popularity thanks to its excellent value for money and timeless design. It is often recommended as a first mechanical watch for new collectors, providing an affordable introduction to traditional watchmaking.</p>
<h2 dir="ltr">Conclusion</h2>
<p dir="ltr">The Sea-Gull 1963 is much more than just a watch; she is the testimony to a time when China sought to assert its technological independence. Its elegant design, combined with a rich history, makes it a must-have piece for any watch enthusiast. Today, <strong>it continues to seduce with its vintage charm</strong> and reliable mechanics, perpetuating the heritage of Chinese watchmaking on the international scene.</p>
<p dir="ltr">(Updated November 2024)</p>

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