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25

1,313

A GMT armed for adventure!

4.8

As a GMT and "tool" watch enthusiast, I was initially going for an Explorer II, and I was also able to try the 226570 at the same time as the Black Bay Pro (BB Pro)! Despite the availability of the Rolex, I only had eyes for the crown keeper. I appreciate this BB Pro first and foremost for its bezel, whose satin finish is very beautifully crafted. This bezel highlights a matte dial that oscillates between anthracite gray and black. It highlights studs made of a kind of ceramic and well-integrated snowflake hands. Obviously, the orange-yellow GMT hand energizes the design without overdoing it. The cream shade of the studs and hands brings a slightly vintage touch. Visibility is excellent during the day and the luminova is super powerful. Everything is enhanced by a domed sapphire crystal that gives beautiful distortions. The bracelet would have been more elegant without its rivets, but it is very comfortable! The "on the fly" adjustment system of the clasp of this BB pro is amazingly simple and effective. Besides, I like to change my strap regularly, I never considered it for this BB Pro. It is not a thin watch, I grant you, but when worn it is not shocking, especially thanks to harmonious proportions, a contained diameter of 39mm and an oversized signed crown; finally a mirror polish on the edge and fine chamfers finish off lightening the whole. She is an adventurer, she likes military shirts with rolled up sleeves; rest assured, a simple swimsuit is enough for her because she also enjoys swimming with its 200m water resistance. The "true GMT" caliber MT5652 (COSC) is very precise and easy to use. Ultimately, this BB pro is an efficient and comfortable watch that makes me smile every time I see that GMT hand set to the time zone of a city where I've had so many great times.

a day ago

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5

58

The quintessence of Rolex!

4.3

Ah Rolex, a brand as much maligned as it is adored, but what is certain is that it does not leave one indifferent. It is a brand whose aficionados can take on several faces. First, there are people for whom having a Rolex is an achievement, the sign of professional success linked to the notion of money. Then, there are those who are starting out, who begin to wander in the meanders of watchmaking, and who without realizing it see their subconscious penetrated by Rolex witchcraft. And then there are the enthusiasts, who after long moments of investigation discover in the brand the history of human conquests but also an undeniable accuracy of execution. And finally there are the detractors, those who fight relentlessly against this immeasurable supremacy erected by the wizards of marketing, and who frankly do not understand why such banal watches unleash so much passion. If I am honest, I must admit that at one time or another I had to be a bit of all of these at once, sometimes perhaps at the same time, and there is a chance that this will continue to evolve in the future. In short, let's not philosophize any longer, Dialicious is the platform for real customer reviews so I will give mine on my Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41mm blue sunray dial. Personally, I have always loved the brand and today I am one of those who recognize its timeless models, a source of inspiration, and made with great rigor. Even if in the meantime I have chosen to acquire other models, I knew that one day I would have the brand with the crown in my collection. It is with this state of mind that I set out in search of an Oyster Perpetual blue dial in 41mm. Why an OP? Because it is the essence of Rolex, an extremely simple and effective watch, whose shape and bracelet have inspired hundreds of models and which therefore finds itself drowned in the mass. It could have written anything on the dial: Omega, Seiko, Citizen or even any microbrand. When I brought it home, they told me: "I don't understand how you can spend so much money and be so passionate about such a banal watch." Well, precisely for this reason, because apart from a trained eye, no one will recognize it. Even if I wanted it, I am one of those who refuse to pay more than necessary and I don't buy my watches second-hand. I wanted my OP, but I wasn't ready to buy it 20% more than the retail price. Even if we have to be honest, the inaccessible side reinforces the desire... After having suffered several refusals (more or less polite) at different ADs, a friend accompanied me to see his. He is a good customer with more than ten watches purchased including 4 Rolexes. It was in May 2024, and even if the seller was polite, I did not have too many illusions. I continued to converse with him by checking in regularly. At the beginning of July, he offered me an OP 41 black dial that I refused: "Didn't you understand? I told you a BLUE". No problem! And finally 2 months later it arrived. Exactly! 2 weeks later I celebrated my 10th wedding anniversary and I took the opportunity to have it engraved for the occasion. I tried to glean some information on the conditions of my allocation. It is clear that the fact of being recommended worked in my favor. And apparently, 3 customers would have been served before me. I won't know more about the twists and turns of the waiting lists! Now that I have it, what do I think of it? I'll let you go see my other reviews to evaluate my points of comparison. But what I like in objects beyond the design is the quality of manufacture, the attention to detail. I pay the price but not just for style, I have to perceive all the meticulousness in the design and production. Even if the Rolex codes have been copied and recopied, I find it distinctive, particularly through the shape of the case, the bracelet and the case back. At first glance, you can confuse it, but this is no longer the case when you look at it in detail. Then what I love is its precision of execution. You can see that all the parts have been thought together to form a whole, and with surgical precision. It's a bit like with German cars, not always the most fun but my goodness it's well done! The details that particularly illustrate my feelings: the back and in particular the case/strap junction, the sensation of winding the crown which is both smooth and precise, the buckle clip which closes and the ROLEX letters engraved on the flange perfectly aligned with the railway. Once the crown is screwed in, I'm even lucky enough to have the logo aligned. Frankly, all this is fabulously well done. The only point that I don't like too much (but thinking about it I don't really see any other solution) is the gap between the bezel and the end-link of the bracelet. Ah this bracelet... I'm going to say something banal but seriously, the Oyster is a killer. Just the right width at the lugs and refinement at the buckle, incredible wearing comfort and a softness of the Oystersteel which heats up on contact with the skin. No really, it is incomparable. The sunburst of the dial makes it go from azure blue to dark blue, it is well accompanied by its thick circled indexes and the applied logo. At first I was not particularly a fan of the double batons at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock but in the end they remind you that it is not a Tsuyosa that you have on your wrist (without wanting to offend anyone). The bezel, the edges of the case and the bracelet are polished. I could have done without it on the sides of the case. But it makes a bit of shine that goes well with the indexes. Finally, it is true that the Oystersteel pulls slightly on the titanium and I find its color really cool. I was going to forget 2 points that disappointed me: when I unscrew the crown, I sometimes have to (not all the time) screw it back a quarter turn to release the crown spring. Since it is not permanent, it gives a mixed feeling. The second point is the spring noise of the buckle that I don't find very pleasant. I had it checked by my AD, from his point of view everything is normal. So obviously it's not serious but after what I said about my attachment to the quality of manufacture, it alters my general enthusiasm a little. To conclude, it may still be the novelty effect but I think that my OP will be on the podium of my most worn watches. So there you have it, whatever one thinks of the brand, one must objectively recognize the care taken in the design and production. Nothing has been sacrificed, everything has been thought out. I bought it for its simplicity and its quality of execution and I am not disappointed. If I were on the couch, I would call it "Surgical"!

a day ago

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6

101

I always saw my father wearing a Herbelin Newport…

4.2

What a pleasure to explore the lineage of my father's model - reissued under the name Herbelin Originals - which seems to be completely opposed to the Newport Carbon Titanium, while it is a subtle and delicious blend of traditions and innovations, tinged with nostalgia and anticipation... ▶️ This Newport Carbon Titanium is the worthy heir to the collection, with its recognizable case, equipped with a single lug reminiscent, no doubt, of a porthole hinge of a sailing ship from a bygone era. This configuration is also the symbol of the first pocket watches, to which buckles were welded allowing soldiers of the Great War to wear their watch on their wrist. Other illustrious models have sported single lugs, such as the Credor Locomotive, Cartier Vendôme and of course the Breguet Reine de Naples. This very characteristic handle type is the most visible distinctive sign, associating the Newport collection with the world of sailing, like a halyard with its mainsail, but not the only one… With its imposing diameter of 43 mm in forged carbon and titanium, this new version of the Newport projects the brand into the innovation of materials, as did the sailboats previously crossing the Atlantic from Plymouth (England) to Newport (USA) during the English Transat. One of the most important characteristics of forged carbon is its lightness. It is approximately 3 times lighter than titanium. Despite its lightness, forged carbon is also extremely strong and rigid, which makes it an ideal material for applications requiring high strength and low weight. In addition to sailing, forged carbon is also used in racing cars or golf clubs, areas with a strong affinity with watchmaking, allowing Herbelin to claim its move upmarket. ▶️ The "Full-Black" atmosphere personally reminds me of the "Black Magic" or New Zealand scarecrows of the America's Cup: the oldest sports trophy in the world. Again and again a story of heritage. Black is also the color of luxury and elegance in discretion and humility, one of Herbelin's cardinal values. Strong and light, with its black FKM strap resistant to aggressive fluids and very high temperatures, it meets the brand's ambition to project itself into the future with the use of highly technical materials. The folding clasp, a too classic brown, allows you to perfectly adjust the strap to your wrist. ▶️ The Newport Carbon Titanium is the link between two eras, with a sweet blend of filiation and singularity. The Newport was born in 1988, 10 years after the first Route du Rhum, the legendary solo sailing race between Saint-Malo and Pointe-à-Pitre. Canadian Mike Birch won the first event in more than 23 days during a legendary edition. To strengthen its roots in the world of sailing, the brand called on a young and talented skipper - Aurélien Ducroz - to embody the brand's ambition to project itself towards a future of performance and self-sacrifice. Like the last Route du Rhum (2024), sailed in less than 7 days with boats that have become Formula 1s of the seas, the Newport Carbon Titanium follows this same trajectory of technological innovations. Quartz at its beginnings, the entire Carbon Titanium collection is equipped with Sellita calibers, adjusted in the brand's workshops in Charquemont, in the French Jura. This black Carbon Titanium is powered by the Sellita SW220-1 self-winding movement, offering 41 hours of power reserve. Displaying the date and day, it offers two complications consistent with the duration of the Atlantic crossing, now less than a week. The lightly smoked case back - an unusual idea that adds to the singularity of the model - allows you to discover the rotation of the oscillating weight. ▶️ The sailing analogy does not stop there, with the textured dial inspired by nautical charts and the foreshore of the Bay of Saint-Malo, well known for its very large tidal range. The bezel, meanwhile, is equipped with 5 screws whose heads - seen from afar - evoke "Torx", world-renowned for their tightening performance. Stop there, my friend! The screw heads seem to come straight from the imprint of the cranks used to manipulate and trim the sails with a winch… This Herbelin Newport Carbon Titanium illustrates with sincerity and serenity that a watch is a matter of subtlety in the details and historical anchors: mine with my father's watch, and that of the Herbelin family at the helm of the brand since its creation… ▶️ The Herbelin Newport Carbon Titanium is offered at €1,999 (January 2025), in black on a black strap or in blue on a yellow strap, recalling the color of the seconds hand. The main technical specifications are specified below. All the specs are available on the brand's website. My "Mood Board" with this Newport Carbon Titanium: Movie: All is Lost (2013) with Robert Redford Boat: Tricat 25 Evolution Location: Cap Fréhel (Brittany, France) XS

a day ago

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