If you are looking for a watch with military DNA and historical legitimacy… but also versatility to be able to wear it in all circumstances, the Auricoste Type 26 Aéronavale may be for you! I wore it for a few weeks before its launch for pre-order on November 16, 2023… I share my opinion with you.
The Auricoste Type 26 Aéronavale is available in two versions, one in Black DLC and the other in Steel. The Steel version, which I wore, is available for pre-order from November 16, 2023. You know my collection of asymmetrical watches and in particular my Omega Constellation D-Shape or my Zodiac Olympos… and although I am a fan of asymmetrical cases… I was not, at first glance, more excited than that by this Type 26 with its very military-style brutal look, which is not particularly what I am looking for as a type of watch.
➡️ So I had even more fun trying to decipher it to position it on the market:
Case:
The first thing that catches the eye about the Type 26 is its asymmetrical shape, with a diameter of 40 mm, which is distinguished by its crown positioned at 4 o'clock, reminiscent of that of the Auricoste Spirotechnique. The brushed finish of the watch is perfectly in line with its positioning as a flight instrument. The case evokes the Monin / MRP designs of the Heuer 844, in particular thanks to the shape of its case with the flat lugs. The case back, both engraved and sandblasted, adds a touch of elegance and refinement. In addition, this watch is designed to withstand extreme conditions, as evidenced by its water resistance up to 300 meters, making it suitable for a variety of aquatic activities.
Crown:
The crown of the watch, positioned at 4 o'clock, gives an impression of déjà vu at Seiko or Citizen, especially while it has clearly been a trademark of Auricoste for a very long time. This screwed crown plays an essential role in the water resistance of the watch, which could position it as a diving watch. Another notable element is the old Auricoste logo, engraved in the form of a wheel, which adds a distinctive and legitimate character to the watch.
Dial:
The dial of the watch is black, with very readable indexes thanks to a simple typography, reminiscent of that of the instruments of the ship. It evokes an altimeter, with the number 0 positioned at 12 o'clock, and is freely inspired by the Auricoste ship clocks that once equipped the caravels. This dial also echoes the Flieger Uhr style, characteristic of the transposition of the instruments of the ship to the wristwatches. In addition, the watch is equipped with a flat sapphire crystal, emphasizing its quality and durability.
Hands:
The hour and minute hands of the watch are of the "Ghost" type, a design very characteristic of flight instruments. The second hand adopts an original airplane shape, adding a distinctive element to the overall design. However, the luminescent treatment of these hands is slightly less intense than one might expect.
Bezel:
The unidirectional bezel of the watch, made of shiny sapphire, corresponds to the idea of a "tamed" military watch, offering a balance between robustness and aesthetics. However, its overly shiny appearance may not be considered the strong point of its design. The bezel, with its 60 clicks, is more appropriate than the one with 120 clicks, if we project ourselves into the calculation of short times. A 1/2 second is not an indicator of time measurement. An original aspect lies in the different treatment of the cardinal indices compared to the others, adding a distinctive touch to the watch.
Movement:
The caliber of the watch is a Sellita SW200, a caliber known for its reliability. Although it is standard on the market, it is starting to be considered slightly outdated compared to recent innovations in the watchmaking field. A notable point is its power reserve, which is limited to only 38 hours, an aspect that can be considered a drawback compared to other models offering a longer autonomy.
Strap + Buckle:
A black Tropic strap on this watch is a notable weak point! Too bad, because the strap plays an important role in the overall experience and comfort of the watch as well as in the perception of value for money.
➡️ The Auricoste Type 26 Aéronavale Acier is sold for pre-order on the brand's website at a price of €1,650 on a black Tropic strap, the same price as the Black DLC version launched in 2019. In this price range, the Auricoste Type 26 Aéronavale is notably in competition with other models from brands that are also legitimate in the on-board instruments transposed to the wrist...
I'm thinking of the Stowa Flieger Classic in 40 mm sold for €1,250. Stowa having been selected by the Wehrmacht during the Second World War to supply watches to pilots, in the same way as Lange & Söhne, IWC, Laco and Wempe. A little more expensive, the Raketa "Ekranoplan" sold at €2,000 celebrates a hybrid aircraft close to a hovercraft of which the Soviet Union had the secret... Indeed, Raketa is a Russian brand meaning "Rocket", created in 1961 to celebrate the first flight in space of Yuri Gagarin. Although its roots go back to the 18th century at the time of Peter the Great, Podeba and then Raketa will distinguish themselves with many military or space watches.
You surely think of other models when looking at this Auricoste? You are right... There are others, but the important thing is the genealogy of this Type 26 completely anchored in the singular history of Auricoste with the army and the Navy, whether for on-board clocks or wristwatches.
For several weeks, I wore this watch regularly… Alternating with other watches in my collection, including my Flieger from the Archimede brand in 45 mm, to question myself about the positioning of this Auricoste… My average rating for this Auricoste Type 26 Aéronavale Acier is 4 out of 5 and this Auricoste, like all watches, has quite a few strengths, but also some weak points.
➕ What I like:
It's its bestial look with its asymmetrical 40 mm case. The ideal format to tame an on-board instrument (too often offered in 45 mm) and make it a watch with versatile dimensions and almost suitable for all wrists. It's a successful Air-Sea marriage for a diving watch waterproof to 300 meters with the authentic look of an on-board altimeter. Finally, the feeling of robustness of its case and consistent finishes, without purely aesthetic artifice, for a watch straight out of a cockpit.
➖ What I like less:
It is the absence of anti-reflective treatment which clearly harms readability while the positioning of the watch and the design of the dial are precisely intended to be very readable. Still on readability, the luminescent treatment is weak, it lasts but with an intensity that could be greater. Personally, I do not find this essential but it is the positioning of the watch to be super readable in all circumstances. The Bracelet + Buckle couple… Ouch ouch ouch. We are clearly not in the know. No particular effort on the subject with a Tropic bracelet and a stock buckle. It is not very comfortable with a single-loop and pulls the perception of the Quality - Price ratio down. A surprising choice for a brand that offers several bracelets on other models such as the Spirotechnique or the Scubamaster.
➡️ The strength of the Auricoste Type 26 is its legitimacy!
But some may see a Seiko or Citizen case with its crown at 4 o'clock, others a dial of IWC pilot watches and the latter hands seen and reviewed on a Bell&Ross... But what you have with this watch is much more powerful than that!
The Type 26 Aéronovale is the distillation of 170 years of French watchmaking history, that of Auricoste... inspired by Auricoste measuring instruments, Type 20 chronographs sold to the Ministry of War in the 1950s, Commandant Cousteau's Spirotechnique and the on-board clock of the no less famous Caravelle.
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